What Remains of Byzantine Istanbul
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The city's thousand-year Byzantine layer survives today as mosques, museums and cisterns. This route follows it geographically rather than chronologically, starting in Sultanahmet and working west towards the land walls. Six stops, not all walkable between.
Route Stops
The Majestic Heritage of History: The Enchanting Atmosphere of Hagia Sophia
Start the day here; the first hours of the morning are best for both light and crowds. Once inside, look straight up to see the pendentives carrying the dome and the light from its forty windows. On the floor is the omphalion where imperial ceremonies took place; along the side walls, reused columns whose capitals do not match. Access to the upper gallery is sometimes closed, so ask at the entrance. As it functions as a mosque, visits pause at prayer times, shoes come off, and women need a headscarf.
The Hagia Sophia is a unique masterpiece that rises in the heart of Istanbul, witnessing both the Byzantine and Ottoman periods. Built as a church in 537 by Byzantine Emperor Justinian I, this magnificent structure has inspired admiration for centuries with its architecture and art. Converted into a mosque after the conquest of Istanbul by Fatih Sultan Mehmet in 1453, the Hagia Sophia has been enriched over the years with various additions, thanks to the special interest of Ottoman sultans. With its massive dome, mosaics adorned with intricate craftsmanship, giant marble columns, and mystical atmosphere, the Hagia Sophia is a captivating space that has hosted different beliefs throughout history, serving as a meeting point for cultures and civilizations. Today, this magnificent structure is open for worship as a mosque, while also welcoming visitors as a work of art and history, continuing to be one of Istanbul's most important symbols. While exploring the Hagia Sophia, it is possible to feel the traces of the past, imagine the historical memories echoing between the stone walls, and witness humanity's shared heritage.
Hagia Irene.
It stands in Topkapi's first courtyard, on the left after the palace gate. This is the oldest surviving church structure in the city and its interior is deliberately left bare, so you see structure rather than decoration. In the apse is a plain cross mosaic from the iconoclast period. Its acoustics are excellent, so it is used as a concert venue and may be closed for rehearsals. It requires a ticket separate from Topkapi; if you only want to see this, you need not join the palace queue.
The Enchanting World of the Basilica Cistern with Its Mysterious Atmosphere and Historical Depth
You descend from the entrance opposite Hagia Sophia; even in summer it is cool and damp inside, so photography needs a high ISO. Most of the three hundred and sixty-six columns were reused from other buildings, so no two are alike. In the northwest corner are two Medusa heads, one on its side and one upside down; nobody knows why, and levelling the column height is the likeliest explanation. The walkway runs one way and turning back is awkward, so take your time.
The Basilica Cistern is one of the most impressive historical structures in Istanbul, an extraordinary water reservoir that has survived from the Byzantine era to the present day. Built in the 6th century by Byzantine Emperor Justinian I, this magnificent structure was constructed to meet the city's water needs and has transformed into a legend over time with its mystical atmosphere. Offering a captivating experience with its massive stone columns, reflections under dim lights, and mysterious underground ambiance, the cistern has served various civilizations throughout history. Particularly, the upside-down Medusa head columns are among the most important elements that attract visitors with their mythological legends and mystery.
Today, the Basilica Cistern is open to visitors as a museum, waiting to be discovered like a hidden treasure in the heart of Istanbul. When you step inside the cistern, you can embark on a journey into the depths of history within a mystical and soothing silence, hearing the unique melody of water droplets echoing among the stone columns. As one of the most striking examples of Istanbul's historical and cultural heritage, the Basilica Cistern continues to offer an unforgettable atmosphere to its visitors.
Grand Palace Mosaic Museum.
The entrance is inside the Arasta Bazaar and its sign is small, so it is easily missed. The floor you see here is the surviving in-place portion of the mosaic that paved the courtyard of the Byzantine Great Palace, conserved where it was found rather than moved. The scenes are not religious but everyday and rural: a shepherd milking a goat, a snake fighting an eagle, children at play. Look closely at the faces and at the animals' movement, which comes from the direction of the stones.
Zeyrek Mosque (Pantokrator)
Leave Sultanahmet by car towards Fatih. It is in fact a complex formed by three adjoining buildings, and from outside you can read those junctions in the brickwork. It spent many years under restoration and whether the interior is open varies, so do not build a fixed plan around it. The wooden houses and steep streets around it are as interesting as the building itself, and the terrace cafes on the Golden Horn side have a good view.
Kariye Mosque (Chora)
This is the route's most visually dense stop, which is why it is left to the end; arrive unhurried. What matters is less the main space than the mosaics and frescoes in the side corridors. In the entrance hall, scenes from the lives of Mary and Christ proceed in order, so you are following a narrative. The resurrection scene in the side chapel, with its moving figures and dynamic composition, is considered the late peak of Byzantine painting. Bringing a small mirror to save your neck is an old traveller's trick.
