Wind, Narcissus and Quiet Coves on the Karaburun Peninsula

The Karaburun peninsula closes the northern arm of the Gulf of İzmir, close to the city yet largely undeveloped. Wind turbines, olive groves divided by stone walls and a succession of coves below. For anyone wanting to escape the crowds, this is the nearest answer İzmir offers.

Getting there: buses run from İzmir but services are limited; by car it takes two hours. Beyond Mordoğan the road narrows and twists, so do not hurry, and a car is essential for the villages at the tip.

The day: stop briefly in Mordoğan and continue along the shore. Karaburun town has a fishing harbour and a small bazaar, but the real beauty is in the villages. Küçükbahçe, Sarpıncık and Hasseki stand in stone, most with only a few households left. The coves at Kaynarpınar and Ardıç have the clearest water for swimming, and the lighthouse and steep cliffs at the western tip are the right place for sunset. At the end of February the whole peninsula is covered in narcissus, and the area has become known for it.

Eating: Karaburun artichokes are the local signature, fresh in spring. Mastic products and goat cheese are sold in the villages, and the fish restaurants cluster in Mordoğan and the town.

Tips: filling stations are scarce, so fill up before leaving İzmir. The wind is strong, so choose a sheltered cove for swimming.