Whistled Conversation in Kuşköy

You come here for a sound, not a view. In Kuşköy people converse across the valley by whistling, a form of communication on the UNESCO list of heritage in urgent need of safeguarding.

Getting there: about sixty kilometres east of the centre via Çanakçı. The road is narrow and winding and steep at the end; a car is needed and there is no hurrying it. The drive takes about an hour and a half.

The visit: the bird language was how news travelled for kilometres before telephones; the valley is too deep for an ordinary voice but a whistle carries. Because the number of speakers has fallen it is now protected and taught in schools. The bird language festival each August brings competitions and fills the village; that is the time to see it. Outside the festival villagers will still demonstrate, though it is courteous to arrange it beforehand. The village is small and the visit short; the point is to sit and listen.

Eating: there is little in the village. There are meals in Çanakçı or Görele on the way back, with corn bread and black cabbage soup to the fore.

Tips: the August festival is the liveliest time but accommodation is limited, so plan a day trip. The road is narrow and a large vehicle will struggle.