Thermal Waters and Steppe Silence in Haymana

Haymana lies in the steppe south of Ankara, and the hot water beneath it has been used for centuries. Known since Roman times, the springs now feed pools run by the municipality and by hotels. An hour from the city, it is a good choice for a day away from crowds.

Getting there: the drive takes about an hour, and buses run regularly from the AŞTİ and Söğütözü terminals. The baths are within walking distance in the town centre, though a car lets you add the surrounding villages.

The day: spend the morning at the baths. The water emerges at around forty four degrees with a high sulphur content and is favoured for rheumatic complaints; half an hour in the pool is enough. In the afternoon head out of town. The plain of Haymana was the ground of the Battle of Sakarya, and the monuments and cemeteries along the river form the main part of the visit. Gavurkale is a Hittite rock monument whose carvings appear unexpectedly in the middle of the steppe; the road is poorly signposted and you may need to ask in the village.

Eating: village restaurants in town serve steppe lamb and clay oven roasts, and the local beans are well regarded. The spa restaurants are plain but adequate.

Tips: the baths are busiest at weekends, so early morning is calmer. Those with high blood pressure should limit their time in hot water.