The Sound of the Loom in Buldan

Denizli is a city associated with textiles, but beyond the factories hand looms are still working in the districts. Buldan is the liveliest example; walking through the town you hear looms through open doors, and this is not a display for visitors but the work itself.

Getting there: forty five kilometres from central Denizli, forty minutes by car, with regular buses. The town is walkable, so parking and leaving the car is easiest.

The day: spend the morning in the market. Buldan cloth carries a geographical indication; fine, light and softening with each wash, it is sold as bath wraps and shirting. In the producers' shops you can see the loom and feel the difference. Turn into the old quarters, where two storey timber houses largely survive and the lanes are narrow and quiet. In the afternoon move on to Tripolis. This ancient city near Yenicekent was founded where the borders of Lydia, Caria and Phrygia met; the rows of shops along its colonnaded street are well preserved and visitors are almost absent. Close the day around Lake Süleymanlı or on the highland road.

Eating: Buldan's tarhana soup and beans are well regarded locally. The market restaurants are plain but home style. Denizli roasted chickpeas make the gift to take home.

Tips: buy cloth from a producer's shop rather than the souvenir stands at the market entrance. Looms are working on weekdays; most are closed on Sunday.