The Islands by Ferry and Bicycle

Knowing there is a place an hour from Istanbul's noise where no motor vehicles run is calming in itself. Of the nine islands in the Marmara, four are inhabited: Kınalıada, Burgazada, Heybeliada and Büyükada. The ferry calls in that order and each has a distinct character: Kınalı bare and reddish, Burgaz quiet and literary, Heybeli green and naval, Büyükada the grandest with its mansions and crowds. Getting there: Şehir Hatları island ferries leave from Kabataş on the European side and Bostancı on the Asian side; the trip to Büyükada takes about ninety minutes from Kabataş, 45 from Bostancı. Morning ferries on summer weekends are packed; going midweek or catching the first sailing decides the quality of the day. Istanbulkart is valid. Sea buses are faster but offer no views. The day: On the ferry go up to the top deck and watch the old city recede; throwing simit to the gulls is an Istanbul tradition. At Büyükada pier head into the back streets to rent a bike; the pier square is touristy and crowded. The island loop is about 12 km, starting along Çankaya Street with its wooden mansions and returning through pine forest. Halfway round, leave the bike at the foot of Yücetepe and climb to Aya Yorgi: a steep 25–30-minute stone path to a Greek Orthodox church with roots in the 6th century and a garden overlooking the whole Marmara. On 23 April and 24 September thousands make the climb to make wishes. Food: A small restaurant at the summit serves gözleme and wine; fish restaurants line the pier; patisseries hide among the mansions. Prices are higher than in the city, so bring water and fruit. On Heybeliada you can swim at Çam Limanı cove; Büyükada's beaches mostly belong to paid clubs. Return: Always check the last ferries; evening sailings are more frequent in summer but pier queues get long. Taking the sunset ferry and arriving at Kabataş with the lights of the Maiden's Tower is the day's finest moment. Practical notes: Comfortable shoes, a hat and sunscreen are essential; island cats and free-roaming horses on the hills deserve caution. In winter ferries thin out and storms cancel sailings, but walking an empty island can be more peaceful than the summer crowds.