The Castle on the Rock at Şebinkarahisar

The south of Giresun surprises anyone who has seen its coast: the forest ends, highland and steppe begin and the climate changes. Şebinkarahisar is the town at the end of that transition, and the castle above it is considered one of the most steeply sited in Anatolia.

Getting there: a hundred and seventy kilometres from the centre over mountain passes, about three and a half hours. There are buses, but for a day trip a car is far more comfortable. The passes can close in winter, so check before setting out.

The day: the castle sits on a sheer rock above the town; the rock is half the defence and the walls the other half. Inside are cisterns and remains, and the climb is steep with unrailed sections. From the top the Kelkit valley and the surrounding mountains lie fully in view. The town itself repays a walk, with stone houses and an old market. Alucra, on the road, makes a good short break.

Eating: the region is known for its meat and clay oven roasts. Şebinkarahisar cherries are worth buying in season.

Tips: the road is long, so leave early; this cannot be done without a full day. Wear comfortable shoes for the climb and take care at the top on windy days.