The Black Sea Shore at Kandıra and Kerpe

Kocaeli brings industry and motorways to mind, yet the north of the province is entirely Black Sea coast, and the landscape there is quite different: white cliffs, small coves and farmland behind. Despite being two hours from İstanbul, the crowds stay manageable.

Getting there: fifty kilometres north of İzmit, or about two hours from İstanbul via the Şile road. Buses reach Kandıra, but a car is needed for the coastal villages, as the coves are scattered and services infrequent.

The day: spend the morning at Kerpe. White rock faces drop straight to the sea along the shore with small coves between them, and walking along the clifftop gives the best of the view. The water is colder and rougher than the Marmara; watch the current, as lifeguards are not always on duty. In the afternoon drop down to Kandıra town and walk the market, where the buffalo yoghurt and cheese the district is known for can be bought from the producers. With time to spare, carry on to the coves at Cebeci and Bağırganlı, both quieter.

Eating: the buffalo yoghurt and clotted cream of Kandıra are the real reason to come. Shoreline restaurants serve fish by season, with anchovy and whiting in winter.

Tips: the Black Sea is rough here, so stay out of the water on windy days. Traffic builds on summer weekends, so leave early. A glass jar is useful if you plan to buy yoghurt.