Seals, Stone Houses and the Siren Rocks of Foça

Located on the northern edge of the Gulf of Izmir, at the mouth of the bay, Eski Foça is a charming fishing village nestled between two coves. Built on the site of ancient Phokaia, it was from here that the sailors who founded Marseille set sail. Today, it attracts visitors with its stone houses, fish restaurants along the Küçük Deniz (Small Sea), and boat tours to the rocks where it is believed the sirens of Homer lived. As it's a Mediterranean seal protection area, you might be lucky enough to spot a seal from the boat, but there's no guarantee.

From Izmir, the ESHOT bus line number 750 goes to Foça from Bornova; there are also buses to Foça from the bus station. The journey takes about an hour and a half. By car, take the Izmir-Çanakkale road and take the Foça exit; the drive takes about an hour.

Arrive early and start at the Beşkapılar Castle, which overlooks the harbor. The walls surround the headland that separates the two coves, and the restored section offers beautiful views of the harbor. Below the castle, you'll find the Fatih Mosque, stone houses from the Ottoman period, and fishing boats. The town is small and can be explored on foot in about an hour. If you visit on a Tuesday, you're in luck – the weekly market is held, and it's a great place to find cheese and olives.

Day boat tours depart from the harbor between 10 am and 11 am and return in the late afternoon. The route usually passes by the Siren Rocks, which are riddled with sea caves and the rocks themselves make sounds when the waves hit them. There are usually swimming stops at several coves, and lunch is served on the boat; be sure to ask when you buy your ticket whether it's included. If you see a seal, watch it from a distance and don't wait for the boat to approach; this is the rule in the protected area, and the captain is obligated to follow it.

If you don't want to take a boat, Foça has beaches; the Büyük Deniz (Big Sea) side is quieter. Yeni Foça is twenty kilometers north and offers a more peaceful option.

In the evening, enjoy the fresh fish of the day and Aegean mezes at the restaurants along the Küçük Deniz. The sunset is directly opposite the harbor, so choose your table accordingly. Be sure to ask for the locally-specialized baked sardines and sea beans.

The last buses leave in the evening, and later in the summer. If you stay overnight, there are guesthouses converted from stone houses around the harbor, and in the morning, before the crowds arrive, the town is yours to explore.

Boat tours operate from May to October; the sea can be cool in the spring and autumn. On weekends, Foça is filled with people from Izmir, but it's much quieter during the week. It's a small place, so have cash on hand for shops that don't accept cards. Underwater hunting and approaching by motor are prohibited in the seal protection area; be aware of this and don't be surprised.