Riva and Poyrazköy, Where the Bosphorus Meets the Black Sea

For most people in İstanbul the northern tip of the Bosphorus is just where the map ends. In fact there are two small settlements up there, both about an hour from the city. Poyrazköy is the northernmost village on the Asian side; Riva sits at the mouth of a stream flowing into the Black Sea, with a long beach and a ruined castle on the hill above it.

Getting there: cross to Beykoz from Üsküdar or Kadıköy and take the Poyrazköy bus, then continue to Riva. By car, follow the Anadolu Feneri road from the Kavacık exit. Return services in the evening are infrequent, so start early.

The day: begin in Poyrazköy. It is a small place, with eight or ten fish restaurants along the jetty and water that already looks more Black Sea than Bosphorus. The ruined Poyraz Castle on the slope was one of the batteries built to guard the strait; the view from it is remarkable. In the afternoon move on to Riva. The beach is wide and the surf real, so families should take care since lifeguards are not always on duty. Riva Castle stands on a small hill at the river mouth, a twenty minute walk that puts the beach and the open sea in the same frame.

Tips: Riva is a favourite of the local surf community, so a windy day actually improves the scenery. Come on a weekday in high summer to avoid traffic at the entrance, and carry cash.