Nallıhan Bird Paradise and the Rainbow Hills

In Nallıhan, Ankara's westernmost district, the Aladağ stream widens into a broad reed bed where it meets the northern end of the Sarıyar reservoir. This wetland has been protected since 1994 and more than 190 bird species have been recorded; pelicans, herons, ruddy shelducks and flamingos on the spring migration. The red, yellow and grey clay hills around it carry the scenery to another planet. Even if birds are not your thing, you will have one of the most unusual nature days near Ankara, promise.

A car is essential, let us say that up front. The Ankara–Ayaş–Beypazarı–Çayırhan route is about 130 km and two hours; after Çayırhan follow the sign for Davutoğlan village. By public transport you can take bus 548 from Ulus to Beypazarı and a minibus towards Nallıhan to the Davutoğlan turn-off, but return times are unreliable; unless you want an adventure, find a car.

Leave Ankara at seven in the morning; first light is the best time for birds and there is no negotiating that. The facility at the nature park entrance has binoculars and information boards; climb the observation tower, then follow the path along the edge of the reeds, and two hours vanish without your noticing. The grove around the facility is fine for a picnic. After lunch drive on to the coloured hills across the lake, known locally as the rainbow hills; take the dirt road slowly, it turns to mud after rain.

Apart from a cafe there is nothing on site, so bring food and water from Ankara or Beypazarı. Dinner in Beypazarı on the way back is the best solution; clay-pot stew, stuffed leaves and baklava, and comparing the day's photographs at the table.

When should you come? The migration months of March to May and September to November bring the richest variety; late April to early May gives you a good chance of flamingos. In summer the reeds go quiet and the heat is oppressive; December is good for winter visitors but the roads can ice over.

Entry is free. Bring a long lens or at least 8x binoculars, closed shoes, a windbreaker and a hat. Phone coverage may drop out, so download the map offline. Do not enter the reeds or fly drones, so as not to disturb the birds, really. The whole route is steppe and hills, so you will stop often for photographs in the morning light; allow at least two and a half hours for the return.