Mansions, Bazaars and the Scent of Saffron in Safranbolu

Safranbolu is less a town than a preserved piece of time. Ottoman provincial architecture survives here almost intact, which is why it is on the world heritage list, and one street is enough to see the reason. It is three hours from Ankara, possible in a day but twice as rewarding with a night's stay.

Getting there: buses to Karabük and Safranbolu run all day from the AŞTİ terminal, and the drive via Gerede takes about three hours. Driving inside the old bazaar quarter is difficult; park and walk.

The day: begin in the Çarşı quarter, where Cinci Han, the mosque of Köprülü Mehmet Pasha and the arcade stand together, with blacksmiths and shoemakers still working in the arcade. The Kaymakamlar House is arranged as a museum and shows how such a mansion was organised, with its summer room, winter room and revolving cupboard. In the afternoon climb Hıdırlık Hill for the whole town in a single view. If you have time, go on to Yörük village eight kilometres away, far quieter and just as well preserved. The İncekaya aqueduct and the glass terrace above Tokatlı canyon are the natural half of the trip.

Eating: saffron flavoured lokum and zerde are the local signatures, and pit roasted lamb is worth a heavy lunch.

Tips: book well ahead for weekends. The cobbled streets demand comfortable shoes, and the town under snow is beautiful and empty.