Kıyıköy and Vize, Istranca Forests Meeting the Black Sea

In northern Thrace, where the forests of the Istranca mountains meet the Black Sea, there are two small settlements. Kıyıköy is a fishing town on a headland between two streams, its walls still standing. Vize lies inland, with a Roman theatre and rock cut chambers. The road that joins them runs through forest, and the drive is half the trip.

Getting there: head from İstanbul towards Kırklareli, then via Saray to Vize and on to Kıyıköy, about three hours. By public transport you need a bus to Vize and then a minibus, and since services are sparse an overnight stay is more comfortable.

The day: in Vize see the Roman theatre and the Byzantine church known as Little Hagia Sophia. The rock cut chambers outside town and the wooded valley on the Kıyıköy road are where the green is thickest. On arrival in Kıyıköy visit the monastery of Aya Nikola, carved into the rock and among the most striking early sites on this coast. Then walk down from the walls to the two river mouths, where you can hire a boat for a short trip upstream. The beach is wide and rarely crowded.

Eating: fish in Kıyıköy is fresh and far cheaper than in İstanbul. Around Vize the emphasis is on Thracian meat dishes and buffalo yoghurt.

Tips: the currents here are strong and lifeguards are not always present. Autumn is the best time to see the Istranca forests.