Karagöl, the Cool Forest above the City

Mount Yamanlar, rising behind Karşıyaka, is where İzmir looks on hot days. Karagöl, a small lake at 900 metres among the pine forests, is the most classic Sunday picnic for locals; go up in the morning, light the barbecue, let the children run around the lake, come down cooler in the afternoon. Summer and winter are both good, and completely different.

There is no direct public transport to Karagöl; that is the trip's biggest headache. By car from Karşıyaka or Bornova it is forty minutes on the mountain road; asphalt, but winding and narrow, so let the impatient local behind you pass. A taxi from Karşıyaka with an arrangement for the return is possible. ESHOT buses climb as far as Yamanlar village, from where a few kilometres' walk or a taxi is needed. A small fee per car and per person is charged at the nature park entrance.

Arrive between 9 and 10 a.m.; at weekends the picnic tables fill toward noon, and latecomers hunt for a tree. The path around the lake is an easy half-hour loop. For longer walks there are trails through the forest toward the Yamanlar summit and the village; signage is scarce, so download an offline map to your phone. Under the pines above the lake, hot summer days are eight to ten degrees cooler than the city, so do not forget the cardigan.

Karagöl is a barbecue place. Bring charcoal, meat and bread from the city; there are small kiosks in the park and the nearby village, but the choice is thin. Yamanlar village has places serving village breakfast and gözleme, perfect for a stop on the way back. Bring your water from the city too.

When it snows Karagöl becomes İzmir's postcard and everyone is there that day; the road can ice over, so chains or winter tyres are a must. Autumn is the loveliest season without the crowds, when the forest changes colour.

Descending the same road to Karşıyaka, the bends offer a sunset view with the whole bay at your feet; stop somewhere and look. Once down, finish the day with lokma in the bazaar or a walk along the shore.

Fires may only be lit in the designated barbecue areas; in summer, when the forest-fire risk is high, they can be banned entirely, so follow the signs. Take your rubbish back, and leave the lake for whoever comes after you. Mobile reception is poor around the lake. The lakeside is safe for children, but swimming is forbidden.