
İznik Tiles, City Walls and an Evening by the Lake
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Nikaia (now İznik) is a town situated on the shores of a lake, surrounded by walls, and has stood in the same location for two thousand years. It was known as Nikaia in Roman times, served as a capital city of the Byzantine Empire for a period, and under the Ottomans, it became renowned for producing some of the world's finest ceramics.
About Trip
İznik is a walled town on a lakeshore that has stood in the same place for two thousand years. It was Nikaia under Rome, a seat of empire under Byzantium, and under the Ottomans the source of the finest tiles in the world. Today it is small and quiet, and can be walked in a day, which is its great advantage.
Getting there: the quickest route from İstanbul is the ferry from Yenikapı or Pendik to Yalova and then a bus, about three hours in total. By car the drive over the Osmangazi Bridge takes about the same. For a day trip you need the first ferry.
The day: enter through the İstanbul Gate; the walls still stand and three of the four main gates can be visited. In the centre is Ayasofya Mosque, built as a Byzantine church, host to a council, and with its floor mosaics still visible. Do not miss the turquoise tiles on the minaret of the Green Mosque, among the earliest examples of İznik work. The museum and the excavated tile kilns explain how the technique developed. Give the afternoon to the lakeshore, where cafes and a walking path follow the water and the sunset lasts a long time.
Tips: if you plan to buy tiles, make time for the workshops. Genuine İznik tile has a quartz body and costs more than ceramic, and the makers are happy to explain the difference.
