Inside the Cloud on Sis Dağı

One of the few places that earns its name. On Sis Dağı the cloud moves along the ground; the same view changes twice in five minutes and the opposite hill sometimes disappears entirely.

Getting there: about forty kilometres inland from Espiye. The road narrows as it climbs and visibility can drop suddenly in the mist, so drive unhurriedly. About two hours in total from the centre. The road may be closed in winter.

The day: at around two thousand metres there are broad meadows and scattered highland houses. The festivals in July and August draw crowds; outside them it is nearly empty. There are short trails, but what people mostly do here is sit and watch the mist come and go. In the moments it clears, the surrounding ridges and the distant sea appear, then close again. For photographers the early morning is the most rewarding.

Eating: outside festival time there are very few places. Bring food; there is fish and pide in Espiye on the way back.

Tips: driving can be risky in the mist, so keep your lights on and go slowly. Humidity is high and a waterproof layer helps. Even in midsummer the temperature can fall below ten degrees.