Fish Where Europe Ends, Rumeli Feneri

The last village on the European shore of the Bosphorus takes its name from the lighthouse built in 1856 during the Crimean War. Rumeli Feneri sits where the Black Sea enters the strait, with an Ottoman fort and a fishing harbour, one of Istanbul's outermost corners. An hour from the city, and much further from its noise. Getting there: İETT bus 150 from the stop beside Sarıyer pier reaches the village in 25 minutes; Sarıyer itself is served by bus 25 from Hacıosman metro or by the Bosphorus ferry line. By car the Sarıyer–Rumeli Feneri road passes through the village of Garipçe and is scenic; parking in the village is limited. Arriving at 10 and eating lunch early keeps you ahead of the crowd. The day: On arrival go down to the harbour first. Fishing boats, men mending nets and the small lamp at the end of the breakwater are a seaside town in its purest form. Then climb to Rumeli Feneri Castle: built in the 18th century to guard the entrance to the strait, it is partly restored, and from its walls you see the Black Sea horizon, Anadolu Feneri opposite and the Yavuz Sultan Selim Bridge to the east. Part of the castle is a military zone, so follow the signs. The lighthouse itself is closed to visitors but visible from outside; its white tower stands out from everywhere in the village. In the afternoon walk the coast road towards Garipçe or explore the paths on the hills above the village facing the Black Sea. Food: The village exists for its fish restaurants. Around the harbour they serve the fish of the season, calamari and fried mussels; bonito and bluefish from the Bosphorus enter the menus in autumn. Prices are a little above Sarıyer but fair compared with the smart places along the Bosphorus. For breakfast, pastries from the village bakery and tea at the harbour are enough. Return: Buses are infrequent, so note the last departure. Going down to Sarıyer and returning to Eminönü by ferry means seeing the Bosphorus once more, this time from north to south; that two-hour return can be the most peaceful part of the day. Practical notes: Wind and salt are sharp in every season; bring something with a hood. Railings are scarce on the castle walls, so keep children by the hand. Do not walk the breakwater in stormy weather. Autumn is when the fish are most plentiful and the air clearest.