Eskişehir by High Speed Train and the Painted Houses of Odunpazarı

The high speed train from Ankara to Eskişehir takes an hour and a half, a journey time that changes what a day trip can be. Ten minutes' walk from the station you are on the bank of the Porsuk; an hour later you are wandering among the painted wooden houses of Odunpazarı.

Getting there: several high speed services run daily from Ankara station and weekend seats sell out, so book ahead. Eskişehir station is central, so no onward transport is needed. Reserve the evening return at the same time.

The day: start in Odunpazarı, a restored quarter of Ottoman houses now full of workshops, small museums and cafes. The best part is watching the meerschaum carvers; the stone is soft when worked and turns white as it hardens. The Odunpazarı Modern Museum holds a surprisingly strong contemporary collection. In the afternoon walk down to the Porsuk, where gondola trips along the river sound like a gimmick and turn out to be the most enjoyable half hour in town. If time allows, see Sazova Park and the archaeology museum, with the Kurşunlu complex as the quietest stop.

Eating: çiğ börek, a thin fried pastry of Tatar origin, is the local dish, and met helva is the thing to take home.

Tips: this is a student city with a lively evening, but do not miss the last train. Real meerschaum is light and can be scratched with a fingernail.