
Enez and Lake Gala, a Day in the Meriç Delta
Sign in to like and rate
The Meriç, the broad and calm river that flows through Edirne, is in no hurry at the end of its journey. North of İpsala it widens its bed, spreads across the plain, and before reaching the Aegean it builds a world of reed beds, lagoons, shallow lakes and dunes.
About Trip
The Meriç, the broad and calm river that flows through Edirne, is in no hurry at the end of its journey. North of İpsala it widens its bed, spreads across the plain, and before reaching the Aegean it builds a world of reed beds, lagoons, shallow lakes and dunes. This trip is a day devoted to the part of that world that lies in Türkiye, the Meriç Delta. We suggest spending the morning on the shore of Lake Gala watching birds, and the afternoon in Enez, where the delta opens to the sea, following the lagoons and the traces of an old port town. Enez Castle and Lake Gala National Park have their own pages on Keşfet; here the weight falls on the water, the shore and the birds.
A plain woven by a river
The 1st Regional Directorate of the Ministry of Agriculture and Forestry explains that the Meriç rises on Rila Mountain in Bulgaria and, after gathering large tributaries such as the Tunca, the Arda and the Ergene, begins to flow in a wide bed north of İpsala. After the point where the Meriç meets the Ergene, the Lower Meriç Floodplain begins; to the south it is enclosed by the volcanic mass of Hisarlıdağ and stretches out in a roughly rectangular shape. The Gala, Pamuklu and Sığırcı lakes formed in the setting prepared by the alluvium the river left behind as it shifted its bed over time.
The ministry also stresses that the delta does not belong to Türkiye alone; the larger part of the area lies on the other bank of the river, and the delta is regarded as an ecosystem that concerns two countries together. The Turkish section was declared a Wetland of National Importance on 19 March 2020; together with its buffer zone it covers 29,046 hectares. The Enez lagoons, Great Lake Gala, Little Lake Gala, Lake Pamuklu and Lake Sığırcı are all parts of this wetland.
What strikes you at first sight of the plain is how closely water and land are interwoven. According to the land use figures given by the ministry, 38.2 percent of the delta and its buffer zone is rice paddy; wetlands take up 17.2 percent, forests 8.1 percent and pastures 4.5 percent, while settlements account for only 1.1 percent. The flooded fields you pass on the road are therefore part of the landscape; for some birds these fields are as much a feeding ground as the lake itself.
What the numbers say
The delta is like the nature museum of a small country. According to the ministry's page, the Meriç Delta Wetland is home to a total of 1,103 species, 586 plant taxa and 517 animal taxa, and it shelters more than 25,000 waterbirds. Four distinct types of vegetation stand side by side here: dune, aquatic, pasture and scrub, and forest. Every year the ministry carries out Midwinter Waterbird Counts, and the Edirne branch directorate continues monitoring at the level of species and habitats. A separate action plan is also under way to protect Roach's mouse-tailed dormouse (Myomimus roachi), a small and endangered rodent.
Lake Gala National Park lies at the heart of this wide wetland. English Wikipedia reports that in 1991 an area of 2,369 hectares was placed under protection, and that biologists from Trakya University asked for the area to become a national park, pointing out that pesticides and fertiliser were polluting the lakes and that poaching had reached serious levels. On 5 March 2005 the area was enlarged and declared a national park. The Edirne brochure of the Ministry of Culture and Tourism presents the park, with its 6,090 hectares of wetland and woodland, as one of the most important wetlands in Türkiye; Wikipedia writes that about 3,090 hectares of this area are wetland and lake and 3,000 hectares forest.
The calendar of the birds
According to the brochure, 163 bird species can be observed in the park, 46 of them resident, 27 winter migrants and 90 summer migrants. English Wikipedia states that around 45,000 birds live in the area and that the best periods for seeing most of the species together are April and May in spring and September and October in autumn. The sources do not agree on the number of species; Turkish Wikipedia speaks of 111 species, while the Küre Encyclopedia writes that more than 217 species have been recorded in observations. It is fair to assume the difference comes from counting methods and periods; in the field what matters is not the number but the season in which you go.
Turkish Wikipedia lists the Dalmatian pelican, the glossy ibis and the pygmy cormorant among the park's key values; all three are species whose numbers have fallen sharply. The Küre Encyclopedia names the flamingo, the Bewick's swan, the whooper swan, the mute swan, the spoonbill, the ruddy shelduck, the coot and various herons among the prominent species, adding that flamingo and swan flocks are seen in large numbers especially in the winter months. English Wikipedia reports that in February 2018, because of a mild winter, nearly ten thousand flamingos came to the lake to overwinter for the first time.
There is life beneath the water too. Wikipedia writes that 16 fish genera live in the two lakes, among them species of high economic value such as the European eel, the zander, the common carp and the northern pike. The ministry, for its part, notes that eel fishing in particular takes place in the area.
Getting there
English Wikipedia puts the national park 8 kilometres from Enez and 23 kilometres from İpsala; Turkish Wikipedia places Lake Gala about 7 kilometres northeast of the town centre of Enez. According to Turkish Wikipedia, İpsala lies 21 kilometres north of Enez and Keşan 60 kilometres to its east; the district is reached by the Enez-Keşan and İpsala-Enez highways. If you are coming from Edirne, choosing one of these two roads and going first to the lake and then down to Enez is a sensible order. The Culture Portal notes that Enez can be reached by minibuses via Keşan; however, a private car makes it markedly easier to cover the observation points on the lakeshore and the lagoons in a single day. For public transport services, get current information from the companies at the bus station before setting out.
Morning on the lakeshore
The first hours of the day are the most rewarding for birdwatching; the light is soft, the wind is often calm and the birds are feeding. The ministry reports that, in partnership with the Thrace Development Agency, landscaping was carried out in the park and a visitor centre, a bird observation tower, a viewing terrace and a tour route were built. Starting at the visitor centre is a good way to learn the layout of the area and which species are expected that season. Since visiting conditions and opening days may change, check with the regional directorate of the General Directorate of Nature Conservation and National Parks before you go.
When you climb the observation tower, the open stretches of water that break through the reed beds spread out before you. Binoculars are the most important item on this trip; a long lens is also a great help for photography. Do not try to approach the birds and do not leave the road and the walking route; a colony disturbed during the breeding season in particular may abandon its nests. The reed beds can be full of mosquitoes in summer; long-sleeved, light-coloured clothing and insect repellent will serve you well.
According to the Küre Encyclopedia, the wooded part of the lakeshore is concentrated especially on and around Hisarlı Dağı. After watching the lake, this area is a good choice for a break in the shade. The brochure notes that the area, with its rare ecosystems, geological formations and archaeological remains, is well suited to educational trips as well, and that it offers a unique destination for outings with family and friends.
Afternoon, the lagoons of Enez
When you head south from the lake to Enez the scenery changes: salty lagoons replace fresh water, and dunes replace reed beds. The brochure of the Ministry of Culture and Tourism presents Enez Dalyan Lake as an exceptional site for watching migratory birds; the flamingos on the cover of this trip were also photographed in one of the lagoons of Enez. The ministry's 1st Regional Directorate notes as well that seaside tourism is intense in the area of the Enez dunes.
These lagoons are also part of the town's history. English Wikipedia reports that the Genoese Gattilusio family, who ruled Enez from the end of the 14th century, drew their wealth mainly from salt pans and fisheries. In other words, some of the shallow waters where you watch birds today were the town's livelihood for centuries.
A port town that drifted from the sea
The old name of Enez is Ainos. Turkish Wikipedia writes that the town became famous as a city with two harbours at the place where the Meriç flows into the sea, but that because of the alluvium the river carried it moved away from the shore and today lies about 4 kilometres inland. This is the most striking example of how the delta works: every year the river carries a little more soil and the coastline advances.
English Wikipedia reports that the only historic building in the coastal part of Enez is the Coastal Caravanserai, which is believed to date from the 16th century and probably stood on the shore at that time, while today it is 500 metres from the sea. Local accounts say it was used for military purposes during the First World War, which is why it is also called the English Barracks. The shell of the caravanserai stands like a silent witness to a port town that remained on land as the sea retreated.
The roots of settlement go back much further. Turkish Wikipedia writes that excavations carried out since 1971 showed the first settlement in the area to be Hoca Çeşme Höyüğü, about 3 kilometres east of Enez, and that in this settlement, founded in the Late Neolithic around 6500 BC, people lived in oval huts made of reed and mud and fed on seafood. The delta was already feeding people eight thousand years ago.
The castle on the hilltop is described on its own Keşfet page; here it is enough to recall that the Culture Portal writes that the castle's western wall was oriented to overlook the Meriç, and that two walls run from the castle down to the sea to protect the harbour on the seaward side. Looking from the castle hill, you understand better how the lakes you visited in the morning and the lagoons you walked around in the afternoon are parts of a single water system. The ministry lists Enez Castle, archaeological remains and tumuli reflecting Thracian culture among the cultural values of the delta.
The end of the day, the beach
The summer face of Enez looks towards the sea. English Wikipedia writes that the town's harbour and Pırlanta Beach lie across the lagoon about 3 kilometres to the southwest, and Altınkum Beach another 2 kilometres further south. The brochure of the Ministry of Culture and Tourism notes that Enez Beach draws those who like to swim in clear water, thanks to currents that constantly renew its waters. In the summer months you can spend the last hour of the trip here and end the day in the sea.
Season and time
For birds, the spring and autumn migration periods are best; in April-May and September-October most species are in the area at the same time. Winter is a separate opportunity to see flamingo and swan flocks; but Turkish Wikipedia reminds us that winters in Enez are harsh and damp, so dress warmly. Summer is pleasant for swimming, but birdwatching becomes unproductive in the midday heat. Whichever season you go in, choose the morning for the lake and the late afternoon for the lagoons.
Practical notes
- Bring binoculars, a hat, water and insect repellent; there is little shade in the reed beds.
- Do not disturb the birds, do not talk loudly, and do not leave the observation areas.
- For the park's visiting conditions and the days the observation tower is open, check the current announcements of the 1st Regional Directorate of the General Directorate of Nature Conservation and National Parks.
- If you study the recorded bird species in a field guide beforehand, you will recognise what you see more easily; telling a flamingo from a spoonbill, or a pelican from a swan, at a distance takes practice.
- Eel and lake fish are part of the local cuisine; you can also take a look at the Keşfet article on Edirne's cuisine.
Sources
- Republic of Türkiye Ministry of Agriculture and Forestry, Nature Conservation and National Parks 1st Regional Directorate, Wetlands, https://bolge1.tarimorman.gov.tr/Menu/48/Sulak-Alanlar
- Culture Portal, Enez Castle, https://www.kulturportali.gov.tr/turkiye/edirne/gezilecekyer/enez-kalesi
- Ministry of Culture and Tourism, Edirne brochure (GoTürkiye, 2024), https://engelsiz.ktb.gov.tr/Eklenti/135116,edirnetrsoc171224pdf.pdf
- Küre Encyclopedia, Gala Gölü Milli Parkı, https://kureansiklopedi.com/tr/detay/gala-golu-milli-parki-752d5
- Turkish Wikipedia, Gala Gölü Milli Parkı, https://tr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gala_G%C3%B6l%C3%BC_Mill%C3%AE_Park%C4%B1
- Turkish Wikipedia, Gala Gölü, https://tr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gala_G%C3%B6l%C3%BC
- Wikipedia, Lake Gala National Park, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lake_Gala_National_Park
- Turkish Wikipedia, Enez, https://tr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Enez
- Wikipedia, Enez, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Enez
