By Train to Gordion and the Tomb of King Midas

Gordion, capital of the Phrygian kingdom, is the ancient city you reach most easily from Ankara, and its inscription on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2023 finally brought it the attention it deserves. On the banks of the Sakarya river in the middle of the steppe lie a settlement mound, hundreds of burial tumuli and the largest of them, the Midas Tumulus; a 53-metre earthen hill containing one of the oldest standing wooden structures in the world. You have heard of King Midas; this is his city.

The high-speed train reaches Polatlı from Ankara station in 30 minutes, with departures between eight and nine in the morning. From Polatlı's high-speed station a taxi takes 20 minutes, about 18 km, to the village of Yassıhüyük; minibuses are infrequent, so negotiating a return taxi fare is the practical choice. By car it is 95 km along the Eskişehir road, about 1 hour 15 minutes.

Start at the Gordion Museum; small but very well arranged, its cases hold Phrygian pottery, remains of wooden furniture and mosaics, and half an hour is enough. Walk across to the Midas Tumulus; the tunnel dug in 1957 brings you to the front of a timber burial chamber. The tomb most likely belongs to Midas's father and the name is traditional, but standing before that timber at the end of the tunnel, whose it was hardly seems to matter. Then move a kilometre to the mound, where the stone foundations of the Phrygian palace, the gate structure and signboards around the dig house explain the site. In spring the view from the mound over the Sakarya valley is lovely, so sit a while.

Apart from the village coffee house and a few seasonal cafes there is little in Yassıhüyük, so have lunch in Polatlı at the restaurants around Sakarya Square. Polatlı's tandır lamb and bulgur pilaf are the classic order, and do not say you were not warned about the portions.

If you have time and a car in the afternoon, climb to Duatepe in Polatlı; the memorial of the Battle of Sakarya, the turning point of the War of Independence and the view over the wide plain take about an hour.

The afternoon high-speed train back to Ankara is another 30 minutes; buy tickets in advance as weekends fill up. The site is open daily 08:30–17:30, the ticket office closes at 16:45 and the museum pass is valid. There is no shade, so bring a hat and water. The tumulus interior is damp and dim; if you are prone to claustrophobia enter the tunnel knowingly, or skip it, it is impressive from outside too.