Black Pines, Vultures and Thermal Water in Kızılcahamam

Go 80 kilometres north of Ankara, let the steppe end and the black pine forest begin. You will come to know Kızılcahamam for two things; the cool walking trails of Soğuksu National Park and the thermal water that rises from underground. Fitting both into one day is entirely possible; forest in the morning, spa in the afternoon, and back to Ankara in the evening tired but renewed.

The best news is that you can come without a car. EGO bus 527 from Ulus terminates right at the national park gate after about ninety minutes; this is the only national park near Ankara you can reach by public transport. By car the İstanbul road takes about an hour. In winter the park road may close after snow; the district governor's website posts the current status, so check before you set out.

Pick up a map at the visitor centre by the gate. The short trail (about 3 km) leads to the fossil-tree geosite and a viewpoint; the long trail climbs to the black vulture observation area. The black vulture is Europe's largest raptor and Soğuksu is one of its key breeding grounds in Turkey; bring your binoculars, mornings are best. Mountain tulips bloom in April and May and the town holds a festival for them; in mid-October the red of the oaks and aspens stands out most sharply among the black pines.

For lunch you will find grills and gözleme at the restaurant and kiosks inside the park; down in the town centre, lamb tandır and the local egg bread. Kızılcahamam's own mineral water is standard on every table, so take a bottle with you.

In the afternoon buy day access to the pool at one of the thermal hotels beside the park; bring swimwear, slippers and a towel, as not every facility rents them. The water's temperature and mineral content are recommended for rheumatic complaints, but rest at least half an hour before driving. The historic Sey bath is another option for the curious.

In winter the park is covered in snow; the walk is kept short and the day is spent in the thermal pool. Snow chains and warm clothes are essential.

For the return, check the last bus time on the sign at the park gate; if you miss it, frequent minibuses run from the town centre to Ankara, so no panic. Entry on foot or by private car is free. Picnic areas get very full at weekends; come on a weekday if you want quiet. Tent camping in the park is subject to rules, so ask in advance.