Black Pine Silence in Bala and Beynam Forest

The Beynam forest southeast of Ankara is an island of black pine left in the middle of the steppe. The surrounding country is open grassland while here trees several hundred years old rise up, and that contrast is what makes the place special. It is an hour from the city and almost empty on weekdays.

Getting there: drive from Ankara towards Bala and follow the forest signs, about an hour. Buses reach Bala but a car is needed for the forest itself. Farmland and steppe accompany the whole drive.

The day: walking trails are marked in the recreation area. The shade under the black pines is cool even in summer and the smell of the soil is unmistakable. The trails are short, the longest taking two hours with a gentle climb. It is good ground for birdwatching, with woodpeckers and raptors regularly seen. In the afternoon you can drop into Bala town, small and plain but with the fabric of an Anatolian country town intact. With more time, continue towards Kesikköprü to see the old bridge over the Kızılırmak and the remains of a Seljuk caravanserai standing alone by the river.

Eating: Bala is known for its lamb and clay oven roasts, and portions in the town restaurants are generous. There is nothing in the forest, so bring picnic supplies.

Tips: fires may be banned in summer. Phone coverage is patchy, so download your route in advance.