Between Beach and River in Şile and Ağva

Even people who live in Istanbul sometimes forget that the city has a Black Sea coast. Şile is a resort town within the province but with a different climate; Ağva, 30 km to the east, is a village where two rivers meet the sea. Together they make a long day trip or an overnight escape.

Getting there: By car via the Şile motorway about ninety minutes from Üsküdar; weekend return traffic exceeds two hours. By public transport, İETT bus 139 from Üsküdar reaches Şile in two hours, and minibuses continue to Ağva. Leaving before 8 a.m. is what wins the day.

The day: In Şile go down to the harbour first. The 19-metre lighthouse built in 1859 stands at one end, the ruins of a Genoese castle on a small island at the other. The lighthouse is among Turkey's largest and can be visited on certain days. The town's market street is lined with shops selling Şile cloth, a thin crinkled cotton woven here for centuries and still worn as summer clothing. In the afternoon move on to Ağva: the village between the Göksu and Yeşilçay rivers has bungalow hotels along the riverbank, canoes and boat trips. The layered rocks of Kilimli Bay are a 40-minute walk from the village; the sea there is rocky and deep, a place for photographs rather than swimming.

Food: Black Sea fish and cornbread at the harbour restaurants in Şile; the riverside breakfast gardens in Ağva need weekend reservations. Village bakeries sell chestnut honey and local jams.

Return: Leave Ağva before dark; the coastal road is winding and poorly lit. If you stay the night, a misty morning canoe trip on the river becomes the most memorable part of the trip.

Practical notes: The Black Sea has strong currents; swim only at lifeguarded, flagged beaches and never under a red flag. Summer weekend accommodation fills months ahead. On overcast autumn days the town empties, and that is the best time for walking.