A Morning in Belgrad Forest

North of Istanbul, behind Sarıyer, lies a 5,000-hectare oak and beech forest from which the city drew its drinking water for centuries. Belgrad Forest takes its name from the Serbian villagers Süleyman the Magnificent brought from Belgrade in the 16th century and settled here; the village is gone, but Ottoman dams, aqueducts scattered through the woods and an arboretum offer more than a picnic ground. Getting there: From Hacıosman, the last stop on the M2 metro, buses 42 and 42HM run to Bahçeköy; from there it is a 15-minute walk to the Neşetsuyu entrance. By car you enter via Bahçeköy and the parking areas inside charge a fee. On weekends a queue forms at the vehicle gate after 9 a.m.; runners are there by 7. The day: The 6.5 km main loop from Neşetsuyu is the forest's best-known trail; flat, wide and marked, about ninety minutes on foot. Several Ottoman water dams appear along the way, the most impressive being Büyük Bent. Side paths off the loop are quieter but signs thin out, so download an offline map. Towards midday move to the Atatürk Arboretum: this living tree museum founded in 1949 has a separate entry fee and is visited for its red maples in autumn and blooming magnolias in spring. Picnics are banned in the arboretum, but its paths are well kept. Food: Forest picnic areas charge a fee and barbecues are allowed only in designated spots; in summer they may be banned entirely for fire risk. A few places in Bahçeköy do village breakfasts; for a proper lunch go down to Sarıyer for its börek or fish restaurants. Return: Bus from Bahçeköy to Hacıosman, or descend to the Sarıyer waterfront and return to the city on the Bosphorus ferry line, a more pleasant alternative. Practical notes: Some parts of the forest have no mobile signal, so walk in groups. Spring and autumn are the best seasons; summer offers plenty of shade but plenty of insects too. Roads inside the forest are paved for cyclists, with heavy bike traffic at weekends. Dogs must be leashed; wildlife, especially wild boar, appears at dawn and dusk.