A Hot Spring Escape to Ayaş and Kızılcahamam

The country around Ankara is volcanic, and its most pleasant consequence is hot water rising from the ground within an hour of the city. Ayaş to the west and Kızılcahamam to the north are the capital's two spa districts; they lie 90 km apart, so rather than cramming both into one day let us offer you two separate escape plans and decide together which one is your day.

Ayaş first. From Ankara take the Eskişehir road and the Ayaş turn-off, 60 km and about an hour; minibuses also run from Ulus. In the town centre you see the wooden Ankara houses, the Ulu Mosque and the Paşa bath on a short walk. The spa facilities lie outside the centre at Ayaş İçmece and Karakaya; the water is warm and mineral-rich, and the facilities offer day-use pools and family rooms. Beside the thermal facility there are fountains where the spring water is drunk; try a sip. Lunch means Ayaş kapama and clay-pot stew, with mulberry molasses for dessert; the mulberry season starts in June and the whole town smells of fruit, no exaggeration. On the way back you can stop at the local produce market on the Beypazarı road.

Then Kızılcahamam. It is 80 km along the İstanbul road, or ninety minutes on EGO bus 527 from Ulus. The water here is hotter, and the thermal hotels offer large pools, indoor sections and hamams; the classic plan is a morning walk in Soğuksu National Park and an afternoon in the pool. Some hotels sell day access to the pool as a package with lunch, so phone before you go. The historic Sey bath continues a spa tradition that goes back to Roman times.

So which one is for you? Choose Ayaş for a quiet, small and authentic town; choose Kızılcahamam for large facilities, forest walks and easy public transport. For families with children, Kızılcahamam's indoor pools are the safer bet in winter. In both districts the spas are calmer on weekdays and day entry is cheaper than at weekends.

At the table, lamb tandır and a buttery village breakfast are standard in both. Kızılcahamam mineral water and Ayaş mulberries are the souvenirs to take home.

A few last notes; ask about facility rules and water temperature before entering a thermal pool, and people with blood pressure or heart conditions should not stay long. Bring swimwear, slippers, a cap and a towel, as some facilities do not rent them. Day-entry quotas can fill at weekends, so arrive early on Saturday or go on a weekday. In winter snow chains may be needed on the Kızılcahamam road.