A Day in Edirne in the Shadow of Selimiye

Sinan called Selimiye the work of his mastery, and once you stand beneath the dome you understand why. Edirne was the Ottoman capital for twenty years before becoming a border city, and that double identity is still visible in its streets. It is two and a half hours from İstanbul, an ideal distance for a day trip.

Getting there: buses leave the Esenler and Alibeyköy terminals throughout the day, and the motorway drive takes about two and a half hours. The centre is small and walkable.

The day: begin with Selimiye. Inside, look for the eight elephant piers that carry the dome and the inverted tulip motif beneath the muezzin's platform, a detail guides enjoy pointing out. The surrounding complex, madrasa and arcade all belong to the same design. Walk on to the Üç Şerefeli and Eski mosques; together the three show the development of Ottoman mosque architecture within a single street. Give the afternoon to the bank of the Tunca and the palace grounds. The Kırkpınar wrestling field lies outside town, quiet outside festival week but worth reading the plaques. The wooden houses of the Kaleiçi quarter make a good final stop.

Eating: fried liver is the dish the city is known for, served with a spicy relish. Take home almond paste and the local helva.

Tips: planning your mosque visits around prayer times is both respectful and calmer.