
From Kurul Castle to Cape Jason, a Day on the Ordu Coast
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Ordu is a coastal city that faces the sea and leans its back against slopes covered with hazelnut orchards. This route begins on one of those slopes, at the Kurul Rocks, then follows the coast road westward and ends at Cape Jason, the peninsula of Perşembe that reaches out into the sea. Only a few hours of driving separate the four stops, yet over the day you hear a wide story that runs from a mountain fortress of the Pontic kingdom to the city's viewing terrace, and from an islet left to the birds to a cape tied to the legend of the Argonauts.
The first stop is Kurul Castle, south of Altınordu within the boundaries of Bayadı. According to the archaeologists who excavate it, this settlement on a sharp rock commanding the valley of the Melet River was used as a garrison fortress in the time of the Pontic king Mithradates VI, and it has been under excavation since 2010. The municipality and the provincial directorate present it as the first scientific archaeological excavation site in the Eastern Black Sea. Climbing the castle's steps and viewing terraces in the cool of the morning is the most comfortable option. The second stop is Boztepe, just above the city, where the whole of Ordu's coastline spreads out beneath your feet like a map. The team that excavates Kurul writes that in antiquity Boztepe commanded the western road reaching Ordu by way of Perşembe and Fatsa, and the rest of the route follows exactly that direction.
Coming down from Boztepe and joining the coast road, you reach Perşembe. Hoynat Islet, which lies within the boundaries of Ramazan right beside the tunnel that bears its name, cannot be visited on foot; it is watched through binoculars from the viewing terrace on the opposite shore. The islet is one of the few breeding sites in Turkey for the European shag and the herring gull. The last stop is Cape Jason, the small peninsula that reaches into the sea west of Perşembe within the boundaries of Çaytepe. Wandering the rocks at the tip of the cape and waiting for the evening sun here makes the finest end to the day.
The order follows the geography: first the mountain fortress inland, then the hill above the city, and after that two nature stops along the coast to the west. There is walking at the castle and on Boztepe; the slopes are steep and the steps can be slippery in places, so wear shoes with a good grip. At Hoynat keep quiet so as not to disturb the birds, and bring your binoculars. At Cape Jason stay away from the water when the waves on the rocky shore are strong. Kurul Castle and Cape Jason are protected sites; do not leave the marked paths and do not enter the excavation areas. For information that can change, such as visiting conditions and the cable car, check the current announcements of the Ordu Provincial Directorate of Culture and Tourism before you set out.
Sources
- Şenyurt, S. Y. ve Akçay, A. 2016, Kurul Kalesi (Ordu) VI. Mithradates Dönemi Yerleşimi Üzerine Ön Değerlendirmeler, Seleucia 6, https://dergipark.org.tr/tr/download/article-file/1146770
- Ordu İl Kültür ve Turizm Müdürlüğü, Kurul Kalesi Yerleşkesi, https://ordu.ktb.gov.tr/TR-130678/kurul-kalesi-yerleskesi-altinorduordu.html
- Ordu Büyükşehir Belediyesi, Kurul'dan Adeta Tarih Fışkırdı, https://www.ordu.bel.tr/haber/kurul-dan-adeta-tarih-fiskirdi-47633
- CNN Türk, Kurul Kalesi'ndeki kazılarda yeni girişe ulaşıldı, https://cnnturk.com/turkiye/kurul-kalesindeki-kazilarda-yeni-girise-ulasildi-1713799
- Ordu İl Kültür ve Turizm Müdürlüğü, Boztepe, https://ordu.ktb.gov.tr/TR-130410/boztepe-altinorduordu.html
- Kültür Portalı, Boztepe, https://www.kulturportali.gov.tr/turkiye/ordu/gezilecekyer/boztepe
- Memurlar.net (AA), Doğasıyla cezbeden Boztepe'de turist hareketliliği yaşanıyor, https://www.memurlar.net/haber/981860/dogasiyla-cezbeden-boztepe-de-turist-hareketliligi-yasaniyor.html
- Ordu İl Kültür ve Turizm Müdürlüğü, Hoynat Adası, https://ordu.ktb.gov.tr/TR-130578/hoynat-adasi-persembeordu.html
- Kültür Portalı, Hoynat Adası, https://www.kulturportali.gov.tr/turkiye/ordu/gezilecekyer/hoynat-adasi
- Karar, Kuşların Ordu'daki yaşam alanı Hoynat Adası, https://www.karar.com/kuslarin-ordudaki-yasam-alani-hoynat-adasi-1457119
- DHA, Hoynat Adası yerli ve yabancı turistlerin ilgi odağı oldu, https://www.dha.com.tr/foto-galeri/hoynat-adasi-yerli-ve-yabanci-turistlerin-ilgi-odagi-oldu-2298472
- Ordu İl Kültür ve Turizm Müdürlüğü, Yason Burnu, https://ordu.ktb.gov.tr/TR-130751/yason-burnu-persembeordu.html
- Kültür Portalı, Yason Burnu Yarımadası, https://www.kulturportali.gov.tr/turkiye/ordu/gezilecekyer/yason-burnu-yarimadasi
- Haber7, Altın post efsanesinin yaşandığı Yason Burnu, https://www.haber7.com/seyahat/haber/3119356-altin-post-efsanesinin-yasandigi-yason-burnu
- Wikipedia, Boztepe, Ordu, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boztepe,_Ordu
- Wikipedia, Hoynat Adası, https://tr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoynat_Adası
- Wikipedia, Yason Burnu, https://tr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yason_Burnu
- Wikipedia, Cape Jason, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cape_Jason
Route Stops

Kurul Castle.
Begin the day at Kurul Castle, within the boundaries of Bayadı about 13 kilometres south of Ordu city centre. An asphalt road climbs to the castle, and there is a large car park at the entrance to the site. After leaving your car, look for a while at the limestone mass rising in front of you; these three great rock blocks, marked on maps as the Kurul Rocks, are the castle's natural wall. According to the study published by the excavation team, the summit stands 571 metres above sea level and its eastern and southern slopes facing the river drop almost sheer. That is why, today as in the past, the castle is approached from the gentler northern and southern slopes that face Bayadı. On the way up you will see steps carved into the bedrock; uncovered in 2012, these steps show the castle's old approach road. Climb them without hurrying, because in places they can be steep and slippery. The first structure to note above is the stepped tunnel cut into the rock, the passage known locally as the dehliz. Researchers describe the tunnel descending through the rock on a straight slope and ending in a natural rock basin where water rises in the floor. The excavation team thinks the tunnel may have been filled with stone and earth when the Roman commander Pompey had the water structures of the Pontic fortresses blocked. In the inner citadel there is another large round reservoir carved into the rock; visitor signs call it a cistern, but the head of the excavation treats that function with caution. Near the summit lies the open-air cult area that the researchers named the Wishing Rock. Look here for the small offering pits cut into the rock face and the deep channels that curve down from it. Most of the coins found in the excavations date to the reign of Mithradates VI, and they show that the castle served as a garrison in that period. The most famous find on the site is the marble statue of Cybele uncovered at the castle's main gate in 2016. The excavations also yielded figures of Dionysus and Pan, goat-shaped vessels, coins and small finds numbering in the thousands. You will not see these objects on site; the finds are handed over to the museum, so devote your visit to the remains themselves. You will see excavation areas separated by fences in places, the team may be at work during the digging season, and these areas are off limits. The provincial directorate reports that it has laid out walking paths, seating areas and illuminated viewing terraces on the site. Stop on one of the terraces and look east; below you will see the valley where the Melet River winds its way towards the sea. Archaeologists note that the castle lies about 9 kilometres back from the point where the river meets the sea and was built in a position commanding the river mouth. When you turn north, the alluvial plain on which Ordu is built and the coastline stand out clearly in fine weather. Because the morning light falls across the valley from the side, this is also the best hour of the day for those who want to take photographs. Since there is a picnic area on the site, you can bring water and a light snack and take a short break on a terrace. Kurul Castle is a first-degree archaeological and natural protected site; do not take stones from the rocks and do not leave the marked path. Returning from here to the centre of Ordu and climbing Boztepe above the city is the second step of the route.
Source: Şenyurt ve Akçay 2016, Seleucia; Ordu İl Kültür ve Turizm Müdürlüğü, Kurul Kalesi; Ordu Büyükşehir Belediyesi.

Ordu Boztepe.
After returning to the city from Kurul, the second stop is Boztepe, which rises just above Ordu. You can reach the top by three ways: the road through Selimiye, the asphalt road that joins the ring road by way of Oğmaca and Yaraşlı, or the cable car that leaves from Atatürk Park on the seafront. The provincial directorate states that the hill lies about 6 kilometres from the city centre. Since you are travelling by car on this route the road is easiest, but those who want to enjoy rising slowly above the city can leave the car on the seafront and take the cable car. The cable car line entered service in 2012 and links the shore to the hilltop. Because schedules and ticket information can change, check the current situation in the announcements of the operating institution. Boztepe's height is given differently in the sources; the provincial directorate says 450 metres, while other sources say 530 or 550 metres. Whichever it is, once you reach the top it suddenly becomes clear why Ordu leans against this slope. The neighbourhood of the same name, Boztepe, also sits on the hill; according to the sources, a considerable population migrated here from Georgia after the war of 1877-1878. First walk to the viewpoint and read the city from left to right. Below lie the neighbourhoods climbing the slope, the city stretched along the shore and the endless Black Sea in front of it. The archaeologists who excavate Kurul Castle write that in antiquity Boztepe commanded the western road that came to Ordu by way of Perşembe, Bolaman and Fatsa. So turn your gaze west, towards where the coast curves away into the distance; the last two stops of the route lie in that direction. According to the provincial directorate, part of the hill has been laid out as a walking axis on the old road, about 600 metres long, and closed to motor traffic. Along this axis you can walk comfortably while seeing the city from different angles. The municipality has also set up wooden stalls selling local produce on the hill; here you can get to know Ordu's hazelnuts and highland products. Because there are wooded picnic areas and resting places on the hill, it is easy to sit in the shade and take a short break. In clear weather Boztepe is also a launch point for paragliding; you may see colourful wings gliding down towards the city. The midday hours make the light harsh for photographs, but if there is no haze every bend of the coast stands out most clearly at this time. If you are coming back to the city in the evening, consider climbing Boztepe once more after dark to see the city lights. On busy summer days the cable car and the car park can be crowded, so coming on a weekday makes for a calmer visit. When you leave the hill, go down to the coast road and turn west towards Perşembe; the next stop is Hoynat Islet.
Source: Ordu İl Kültür ve Turizm Müdürlüğü, Boztepe; Kültür Portalı, Boztepe; Şenyurt ve Akçay 2016, Seleucia.

Hoynat Island.
Coming down from Boztepe and continuing west along the coast road, you reach Perşembe and then Hoynat Islet, within the boundaries of Ramazan. The islet is easy to find, because the tunnel right opposite it on the coastal road between Perşembe and Fatsa also bears its name and is known as the Hoynat Tunnel. Leave your car in a suitable spot at the viewing area laid out by the municipality and walk to the terraces. The islet lies about 100 metres off the shore and, according to the sources, covers an area of only about 700 square metres. Landing on the islet is forbidden; the municipality has protected it as a habitat completely separated from people so that the birds are not disturbed. So the real business of this stop is watching and listening. Use the observation binoculars installed on the terrace, and if you have your own pair with you, take that out too. First look at the dark, long-necked birds on top of the rocks; these are European shags. The European shag has very few breeding sites in Turkey; the provincial directorate presents Hoynat as the only one, while the press describes it as one of two. According to counts reported in the press, about 90 pairs of European shags and about 250 pairs of herring gulls live on the islet. On top of the vegetated hill there are also traces of walls that you can make out after a while. The provincial directorate states that there are remains of a historic fortress and a cistern on the islet, and that it was therefore registered as a second-degree archaeological site in 2004. The sources suppose that in ancient times the islet was a place sailors used as a store and a shelter. Throughout its history, however, the islet is known never to have had a permanent settlement. Because it shelters endangered species, Hoynat has also been designated an Important Bird Area. The arrangement on the shore includes wooden steps leading down to the beach and seating areas next to the viewing terrace. If you go down to the beach and stand at the water's edge, you will see the islet and the birds from a lower angle. While watching the birds do not talk loudly, do not throw food to them, and avoid flash photography that turns light into the birds' eyes. A long lens is very useful here for photography, because there is no other way to get close to the birds. The busiest time on the rocks is the breeding season; if you come to this stop then, you may see a livelier scene. Here it also comes to mind that Perşembe is a member of the slow city network; the gently flowing life of the coast suits the pace of this stop too. After a short break, continue west along the coast road; the last stop of the day is Cape Jason.
Source: Ordu İl Kültür ve Turizm Müdürlüğü, Hoynat Adası; DHA, Hoynat Adası; Karar, Hoynat Adası.

Cape Jason.
The last stop of the day is Cape Jason, which reaches into the sea within the boundaries of Çaytepe, about 15 kilometres west of the centre of Perşembe. The peninsula lies on the old Ordu-Samsun road and became easy to reach after the Bolaman-Efirli coastal road, completed in 2008, was opened. The municipality has built walking paths, a car park and an information kiosk on the site while respecting its historic and natural fabric. Leave your car in the car park and walk along the paths towards the tip of the cape. The cape takes its name from Jason of Greek mythology; according to the stories, the Argonauts also called at this shore while searching for the Golden Fleece. Ancient sources record that a temple of Jason protecting sailors stood here, and the geographer Scylax mentions an acropolis. Looking at the shore with this legend in mind, it is not hard to imagine small ships making their way against the currents offshore. Today the peninsula is protected as a first-degree archaeological and second-degree natural protected site. Walk to the rocky tip of the cape and look for the point where the sea is visible on both sides at once. The sources state that a lighthouse stands at the tip of the cape; try to fit the lighthouse and the rocks in front of it into the same frame. There is also a historic building from the 19th century on the peninsula, but the real subject of this stop is the cape itself and its view. The sources report that the area was a centre of maritime trade in antiquity, and that surface surveys and clay beds show pottery was made and traded here. Watch for traces of old harbours and fish pools cut into the rock along the shore; the sources write that these can still be seen today. About 300 metres west of the cape there is a second, smaller promontory known as False Jason, Yalancı Yason. When you look west in clear weather, the silhouette of the Ünye headland can be made out. According to the provincial directorate, both sunrise and sunset can be watched here with the naked eye in the summer months. So time your visit for the evening hours and wait here for the moment the sun sinks into the sea. Choose a flat spot among the rocks to sit, but do not go down to the lowest rocks of the shore when the waves are strong. Large amounts of seashells collect along the shores of the peninsula; leave them where they are, because the area is protected. There are picnic areas and resting places on the peninsula and along the nearby shore. Because the cape can be crowded on summer evenings, arriving a little early for the car park makes things easier. After sunset, the drive back east along the coast road to the city centre by way of Perşembe is about 28 kilometres, according to the distance given by the provincial directorate. On the way back the dark sea on your right will show the same coast you looked at from Kurul in the morning, this time as a line in the night.
Source: Ordu İl Kültür ve Turizm Müdürlüğü, Yason Burnu; Kültür Portalı, Yason Burnu Yarımadası; Wikipedia, Cape Jason.
