From Bolaman to Perşembe Plateau, from the Coast to the Lakes and the Meanders

Start the day in Bolaman, right beside the coast road; the morning light strikes the sea-facing front from the side, so the wooden texture of the mansion reads best at these hours. Leave your car at a suitable spot by the road and first look at the whole silhouette from the far shore of the cove, without approaching the building at all. This distant view matters, because the real interest of the building lies in two separate ages stacked one on top of the other. In a single frame you see the inner keep walls rising in cut stone below and the wooden mansion set on top of those walls above. The sources write that the castle was built on a headland reaching gently into the sea, as an inner and outer castle for watch and guard duty. Turkish Wikipedia adds that the headland is known to have once been an island; keep this in mind as you look along the shoreline. According to what the Provincial Director of Culture and Tourism told the Anadolu Agency, the load-bearing elements of the mansion are the castle stones themselves, so the wooden building is mounted directly on the castle. As you come closer, pay attention to this point of union; the line where stone ends and timber begins is the finest detail of the building. Then look at the bay windows at the two ends, because it is this plan with two projecting bays that makes the building a well-known example of local architecture. The Küre Encyclopaedia writes that the walls were built in masonry technique using cut stone and rubble stone. Turkish Wikipedia states that the surviving castle walls reach a height of six metres on the landward side. The construction date of the mansion differs between sources: the ministry pages give the 18th century, while Turkish Wikipedia gives the early 19th century. The same article relates that the building was commissioned as a guesthouse by Hazinedarzade Süleyman Pasha, governor of Trabzon, and that over time it became the family's reception wing. The same source also notes that the English geologist William John Hamilton mentioned this house in 1836. Locally the building is also known as the Kademoğlu Mansion; do not be surprised if you meet both names on signs. The Ministry of Culture and Tourism once restored the mansion faithfully to its original form. According to a report by the Anadolu Agency, the mansion is now being taken in hand again to become a city museum that will tell the story of local life. For this reason, ask the provincial directorate of culture and tourism or the officials in Fatsa before setting out whether you will be able to go inside. Even if you cannot enter, you can watch the building from different angles along the shore and from the upper level of the road. For photographs, look for a slightly distant angle that takes in the mansion together with the sea and the rocks of the headland. Sitting for a few minutes facing the sea and watching the calm water of Bolaman cove is also part of this stop. Before you leave, look at the coast on both sides of the headland; after this you will not see the sea again for the rest of the day. For the next stop, turn back towards Fatsa and take the Aybastı road from the town centre.

Source: KTB Ordu İl Kültür ve Turizm Müdürlüğü, Bolaman Kalesi ve Hazinedaroğlu Konağı; Kültür Portalı; AA, tarihi konak müzeye dönüşüyor; Küre Ansiklopedi, Bolaman Kalesi; Wikipedia, Hazinedaroğlu Konağı ve Bolaman Kalesi.

After you turn from Fatsa onto the Aybastı road, the road begins to climb through hazelnut orchards and the lake appears after a short drive. The provincial directorate places the lake at the tenth kilometre of this road, while Turkish Wikipedia gives the eighth kilometre; following the signs is enough. Since the landscaping by the Ordu Metropolitan Municipality, the site has a car park, walking paths and a viewing terrace. Once you have left the car, first go up to the viewing terrace and take in the lake as a whole. From here you can easily pick out the small islet in the middle of the lake; Wikipedia notes that this islet is associated with the remains of an old structure. Then go down to the walking path and circle the lake at a slow pace. As you walk, think about how the lake was formed, because that is the real story of this stop. According to the provincial directorate, the lake was created by a landslide that affected a wide area between the Bolaman River and the Yassıtaş locality. The hollows opened when the ground slipped filled with rainwater, and some of them later dried out or were drained to make fields. Wikipedia writes that the lake consists of two separate basins: a large, deep main basin and, to the west, a shallow section linked to it by a small sill. When the path brings you to the western shore you will notice this shallow section and the reed bed that wraps around the bank. According to the provincial directorate, the lake covers an area of sixty decares and its depth varies between ten and fifteen metres. The same page writes that the landslide developed on the surface of the Upper Cretaceous flysch rocks of the area. No stream flows into the lake, but a small channel releases surplus water into the Bolaman River. The sources record that several fish species and crayfish live in the lake; in the morning you may see people casting lines from the shore. The lake is protected as a first and third degree natural site, so do not leave the walking path and do not walk into the reeds. Sitting quietly on the viewing terrace for a few minutes is a good idea for the water birds and the sounds of the reeds. The provincial directorate page states that canoeing is offered at the site; if you want to go out on the water, ask about the current situation on the spot. An agency report on Habertürk describes how the lake has become a busy place to visit since the 2024 works. For this reason the walking path can be crowded around midday at weekends; if you want calm, move the route to a weekday. For photographs, choose a low angle that takes in the lake together with the reeds and the woodland behind. When you have finished your walk, return to the car and continue along the Aybastı road, climbing inland towards the heights where the highlands begin.

Source: KTB Ordu İl Kültür ve Turizm Müdürlüğü, Gaga Gölü; Habertürk (AA), Gaga Gölü; Wikipedia, Gaga Gölü.

After Gaga Lake the road heads inland and the hazelnut orchards slowly give way to forest. Ulugöl lies southwest of the Gölköy town centre, and there are signs from the town pointing the way to the lake. Sources give the distance from the town differently, anywhere between nine and seventeen kilometres; drive without hurrying on the mountain road. Leave the car in the car park at the entrance of the nature park and first walk to the viewing terrace on the lakeshore. From here you see the layout of the site: according to the provincial directorate, there are three landslide-dammed lakes in the nature park, one large and two small ones covered with reeds. Ulugöl, which gives the park its name, is the largest of them and, according to Wikipedia, the largest lake in Ordu. Take the walking path that circles the lake and complete the loop without hurrying. As you walk, pay attention to the trees; Wikipedia writes that the forest around the site is made up of beech, alder, hornbeam and maple. In the waters near the shore you can see floating-leaved plants and water lilies; Wikipedia also notes that the white water lily was brought to the lake from outside. The reedy shores of the small lakes are a good listening point for birdsong; stop there for a few minutes. Because the site lies at an altitude of about one thousand two hundred metres, it is noticeably cooler than the coast even in summer, and a light top layer will be useful. The nature park was declared in 2009 and covers an area of twenty-six and a half hectares. The park has picnic tables, a fountain, a viewing terrace and walking paths; you can have lunch here in the shade of the trees. Wikipedia writes that the lake is fed by groundwater and surface water and has first-class water quality. The same source mentions that the park has country houses suitable for family stays. Take back everything you brought with you, because the lake is known for its clean water and is a protected area. The forest around the lake is at its most famous in autumn; the provincial directorate specifically mentions the harmony of colour created as the leaves turn yellow. According to a CNN Türk report, thousands of people a day visit the site at this time, so in October an early morning arrival is essential for a quiet walk. For photographers, the best frames come in windless hours when the still water mirrors the forest. In July the Ulugöl festivities organised by the local authorities can make the site very crowded; if you want calm, find out the festival days in advance. Sources give very different figures for the depth of the lake, so we do not give a number here. When you have finished the loop, return to the car; the last stop, Perşembe Plateau, lies about twenty kilometres to the west as the crow flies, but the mountain roads are winding. Check the directions and whether the road is open on an up-to-date map, then cross towards Aybastı.

Source: KTB Ordu İl Kültür ve Turizm Müdürlüğü, Ulugöl Tabiat Parkı; CNN Türk, Ulugöl'de sonbahar; Milliyet, Ulugöl Tabiat Parkı; Wikipedia, Ulugöl.

The last stop of the route is Perşembe Plateau, seventeen kilometres from the Aybastı town centre, and at about one thousand five hundred metres it is the highest point of the day. The Culture Portal writes that most of the plateau road is asphalt and the rest is gravel; slow down on the final stretch. According to an NTV report, there is a natural lake and a waterfall at the entrance to the plateau; you can make a short stop for them on the way up. When you reach the plateau centre, leave the car and first walk towards the meanders to see why the plateau is famous. The meanders are the tight loops drawn by streams that wind back and forth across a flat meadow. The Küre Encyclopaedia explains that this landform was shaped by erosion and stream action over thousands of years. The provincial directorate also presents the meanders as a formation without parallel in this region and writes that a registration process is under way to protect them as world heritage. You see the loops best from a little height; a short climb up one of the slopes around the meadow opens up this view. If you go down onto the meadow, take care not to tread on the stream banks and not to disturb the grazing animals. The Anadolu Agency and NTV report that the flocks of sheep grazing around the meanders in summer draw the attention of visitors. These flocks are a reminder that the plateau is a living working landscape, so pass the shepherds and their dogs calmly. The plateau was declared a tourism centre by a Council of Ministers decision in 1991, and through the summer it turns into a busy place of life. The Anadolu Agency writes that local people sell the produce they make themselves at the plateau market; if you want to take something local home, stop at the market. The plateau is much cooler than the coast and fog comes down often; the Anadolu Agency report describes visitors wearing cardigans even in midsummer. If the fog closes in, stay on known paths so as not to lose your way in the middle of the meadow. Plateau festivities are held every July; the provincial directorate lists wrestling matches, horse races, folk dance performances and concerts. On festival days the plateau becomes very crowded and the road and car parks fill up; if you want a calm evening, find out the festival dates in advance. The provincial directorate also notes that the plateau is suitable for picnics, nature trips and paragliding. The Küre Encyclopaedia writes that farming and stockbreeding continue on the plateau and that it holds significant potential for ecotourism. NTV reports that there are guesthouses and apartment lodgings on the plateau; if you want to stay the night, book your place in advance. At the end of the day, watching the meanders with the lowering sun is the best way to close this climb that began on the coast. On the way back darkness and fog can make the mountain road difficult, so set off before nightfall. In winter the plateau road can be closed by snow and ice; if you are thinking of going in the cold season, ask about the state of the road beforehand.

Source: KTB Ordu İl Kültür ve Turizm Müdürlüğü, Perşembe Yaylası Menderesler; Kültür Portalı, Perşembe Yaylası; AA, Perşembe Yaylası; NTV, Perşembe Yaylası; Küre Ansiklopedi, Perşembe Yaylası.