Palandöken Dağı

Palandöken is the mountain mass that curves like a bow around the south of the Erzurum plain, forming the backdrop seen from almost every street in the city. According to the nature guide of the Erzurum Provincial Directorate of Culture and Tourism, the highest point of the range is Ejder Tepesi at 3176 metres. Sources give different figures for the summit height; the Turkish Wikipedia gives 3125 metres, while the English Wikipedia gives a higher value. The same guide states that the mountain lies about 5 kilometres from the city centre and 15 kilometres from the airport. Because Erzurum itself stands at an altitude of roughly 1850 metres, the mountain looks lower than it really is. The story of its name comes from everyday local life. According to the Turkish Wikipedia, the name combines the word "palan", meaning the pack saddle placed on a donkey's back, with "döken", meaning the one that spills. It is a reference to the saddlebags on pack animals tipping over on the steep paths of the mountain. Today everyone in Türkiye knows Palandöken first for skiing. The Go Türkiye page on Erzurum explains that the mountain covers an area of about 70 by 25 kilometres and was declared a Winter Tourism Centre in 1993. The ski centre is set on slopes close to the city, and according to the provincial tourism guide it is about a ten-minute drive from the city centre. The provincial nature guide writes that the longest run reaches 12 kilometres and that the difference in altitude between the top and bottom of the runs is 1100 metres. According to the same guide, the Ejder and Kapıkaya runs are Olympic runs registered by the International Ski Federation. The snow on the slopes is said to reach two to three metres in depth, and its quality is what draws skiers here. Because official publications give different figures for the number of runs and their total length, it is best to check the current figures in the operator's announcements. The mountain has also hosted major winter events. Erzurum held the 25th Winter Universiade in 2011; according to the English Wikipedia, the freestyle skiing and snowboard competitions took place on the runs at Palandöken. In 2017 the alpine skiing and snowboard races of the European Youth Olympic Winter Festival were also held here. The provincial tourism guide also notes that Palandöken carried the title of European Capital of Winter Sports for 2025. Winter does not only mean skiing. The tourism guide lists snowboarding, paragliding, mountaineering, ice climbing and snow walking among the activities, and notes that night skiing is possible on lit runs after sunset. According to sources the season can open in late autumn or November and continue on the higher slopes until May; since opening and closing dates depend on the snow, check the announcements before you go. When summer comes the face of the mountain changes completely. Once the snow retreats, the green slopes, the rocky ridges and the transmitter towers on the summit can be picked out even from the city. The Turkish Wikipedia notes that the climb is not technically difficult and that the easiest way to the summit follows the ridge up from the ski centre. A second route climbs from Başköy on the southern slope of the mountain. The same source stresses that some steep sections can be dangerous in harsh winter conditions and that winter ascents call for technical equipment. Even on a summer walk the weather on the mountain changes much faster than in the city, so do not forget a windproof jacket and water. There is a small detail for those interested in botany. A bellflower species found only on this mountain, known by the scientific name Campanula palandokenensis, can be seen on the slopes in May. You do not have to climb to the summit to see Palandöken. Seen from the walls of Erzurum Castle or from the higher points of the city, the whole mass of the mountain rises above the city like a wall, especially in the afternoon light. The ski centre is a short drive up from the city; in the winter season, check the operator's current announcements for transport options and for the operating schedule of the gondola and chairlifts. The historic redoubts at the foot of the mountain and the madrasas in the city centre are close enough to be visited together on the same day.