Kozak Yaylası

Kozak Plateau is a broad upland stretching between Bergama and Ayvalık on the foothills of Madra Mountain, known for its stone pine forests. It begins about 20 kilometres north of Bergama, and its altitude ranges between 500 and 1000 metres above sea level. It is not a single spot but a region made up of forests, fields and scattered villages. Yukarıbey, Aşağıbey and Demircidere are only a few of these villages. According to Milliyet, the plateau takes its name from the pine cone; the green cover formed by the umbrella-shaped stone pines looks like an endless forest when seen from a distance. The identity of the plateau is defined by the stone pine. Pine nuts and hand weaving are the best-known products of Kozak. According to a study published in the Bartın Faculty of Forestry Journal, pine nuts are one of the leading non-wood forest products of the Aegean Region and a source of both food and income for producers in rural areas. The same study notes that the name "Bergama Kozak pine nut" is protected by a geographical indication. Collecting the cones, drying them and separating the nuts from their shells is a labour-intensive process. The processing facilities in the area are mostly small and medium-sized enterprises. The study also records that production has declined in recent years and that the facilities struggle to find enough raw material. Before the stone pine, the plateau had another product. According to a report in Birgün, local table grapes called Kozak Black and Kozak White were once grown over large areas in Kozak. When the stone pine brought higher income, growers left their vineyards for pines and viticulture faded into the background. In recent years model vineyards have been planted in the neighbourhoods of Demircidere and Aşağıbey to revive these grapes. So as you travel around the plateau you see not only the pines but also the small vineyards and gardens around the villages. The best way to explore Kozak is not to rush to a particular point but to stop and walk along the way. The suggestions compiled by Yeni Asır point in the same direction: villages, wooded areas, picnic spots and viewpoints are found together across the plateau. Short nature walks among the stone pines suit visitors of every age. Taking a break around Yukarıbey to see village life up close and to look at local produce is an enjoyable part of the trip. For those who want longer walks, the plateau is, as Wikipedia also notes, a centre for walking tourism. Its flat areas and forests also attract those who want to camp. A few practical notes will make your trip easier. The plateau does not have a dense network of services like city centres, so it is advisable to stock up on water and food in Bergama. Bring comfortable shoes, a hat and sun protection. The stone pines are the livelihood of the villagers; do not pick the cones and do not enter orchards without permission. Because the risk of forest fire is high, lighting fires in summer is strictly forbidden, and for picnics you should use only the permitted areas. Autumn, when the cone harvest and cool weather come together, is a lovely season to visit. The easiest way to reach the plateau from İzmir is by your own car via Bergama. After Bergama the road climbs in bends and enters the stone pines. It is also possible to go from Bergama to the plateau by public transport or taxi, but a car makes travelling between the villages much easier. There are also roads climbing to the plateau from the Ayvalık side. Visiting the ancient remains in Bergama in the morning and moving on to Kozak in the afternoon makes a full weekend programme for visitors from İzmir.