Kilistra Antik Kenti (Gökyurt)

Kilistra is a rock-cut settlement about 50 kilometres southwest of central Konya, within the neighbourhood of Meram district formerly known as Gökyurt. In 2017 the neighbourhood was renamed Kilistra after the ancient town. The settlement was made by hollowing out hills of soft volcanic rock, which is why at first sight it recalls the fairy chimney valleys of Cappadocia. The history of the area runs deeper than one might guess. According to the Culture Portal, pottery fragments found at the site show that life here goes back to the Late Bronze Age. The mound on which the town stands was used as a settlement in the Hellenistic and Roman periods. Expert assessments quoted in the press state that regular settlement can be traced back to the 3rd century BC. The main spread of the rock-cut structures, however, came in the Early Byzantine period. Kilistra lies on the historic King's Road, the route that crossed Anatolia from west to east and was known in Roman times as the Via Sebaste. The road reaches the town from the direction of Hatunsaray, and its stone paving still survives in places. Entering the ancient town by following this old road is one of the most striking moments of the visit. Hatunsaray, about 15 kilometres away, is known as the site of Lystra, a town given the status of a military colony by Rome, and the two settlements stayed linked throughout history. The layout of the town follows the natural rock formations. In the Early Byzantine period the settlement was built in five separate locations, with concealment as its guiding principle. Masses that look like plain natural rock from a distance were carved inside into spacious rooms. Light and air reach the interiors through loopholes and chimney openings cut so that they cannot be noticed from outside. Houses, cisterns, workshops, presses, fountains and tombs were carved into the rock, and watchtowers, guard posts and shelters were made for defence. There is also a cross-shaped chapel carved into the rock on the site. The rocks themselves are part of the story. According to geologists from Selçuk University quoted in the press, the volcanic rocks around Konya formed roughly 11 to 3 million years ago. The ash that settled after the eruptions turned into layers of tuff that are easy to carve and shape. Where a harder top layer protects the soft rock beneath, masses resembling fairy chimneys appear. The experts also note that this line of rock-cut settlements stretches towards Beyşehir. The town came under Turkish rule from the 11th century and joined the Ottoman lands in 1466. Life in Gökyurt has never stopped, and villagers are reported to still use some of the rock rooms to store food today. So remember that you are walking through a living village while touring Kilistra, and do not enter rooms whose doors are closed. After cleaning, restoration and landscaping work carried out by the Provincial Directorate of Culture and Tourism, part of the structures were opened to visitors. Experts have said they found a crack running from top to bottom in the rock that holds the chapel, with erosion around it, and that the site needs more protection. Writing or drawing on the rock surfaces damages this fragile heritage permanently. Using only the open paths during your visit matters both for your own safety and for the life of the structures. A private car is the most practical way to reach Kilistra. According to the Culture Portal, you arrive via the 15 kilometre Gökyurt road that branches southeast off the 34 kilometre asphalt road from Konya to Hatunsaray. A second road of 9 kilometres turns left at the 36th kilometre of the Konya to Antalya highway and passes the Kayalı junction. For travellers heading towards Antalya, the suggested plan is to follow the King's Road via Hatunsaray, tour Kilistra and then join the main road by the Kayalı route. There is little shade on the site and the ground is uneven in places, so bring closed shoes, a hat and water. In winter, when the rocks are covered in snow, the scenery draws photographers in particular. The contrast of light between the inside and outside of the rock rooms gives softer photographs in the morning and late afternoon. Check the sources of the Provincial Directorate of Culture and Tourism before you go to see whether visiting conditions have changed.