Eber Gölü

Lake Eber is a freshwater lake in the east of Afyonkarahisar Province, lying between the districts of Çay, Bolvadin and Sultandağı, and it is known above all for its reed beds. The Governorship of Afyonkarahisar notes that the lake begins about 8 kilometres southeast of the centre of Bolvadin. Its water surface sits roughly 967 metres above sea level. The Emir Mountains rise to the north and the Sultan Mountains to the south, and the depression between these two ranges forms the lake bed. The lake is part of a closed tectonic basin known as the Akarçay Basin, which runs from northwest to southeast. It is generally accepted that a single large lake formed in this basin at the end of the last glacial age and that, as the waters receded, it split into two lakes, Eber and Akşehir. Today a strip of land of about 10 kilometres separates the two. Part of Eber's water is passed on to Lake Akşehir in the southeast through a channel known as the Eber channel. The name of the lake is said to come from Eber, a clan of the Avşar Turkmen who lived in the area. Sources also record that in the Byzantine period the same body of water was called Tessarakonta Martyron, the Lake of the Forty Martyrs. The main waters feeding the lake are the Akarçay, which arrives after flowing through the city of Afyonkarahisar, and the springs that descend from the Sultan Mountains. As a result its surface area changes from year to year and even from season to season. The provincial directorate of culture and tourism gives the area as 150 square kilometres, while Wikipedia puts the average at around 125 square kilometres. According to the records, the highest level was measured in May 1969 and the lowest in October 1991. During the drought of October 2018 the press reported that the lake had dried up completely, and in the following years the water was reported to have returned. For this reason it is wise to check the current water situation with local sources before your visit. At first sight Eber looks less like a lake than an endless reed bed. Most of the surface is covered with red reeds that can reach five or six metres in height, along with bulrush. The floating islets that form when reed roots break away from the ground and wind-blown soil gathers on top of them are called kopak by local people. Some kopaks are said to grow large enough for fishermen and reed cutters to build shelters on them. Reed and bulrush are among the livelihoods of the surrounding villages, and you may well see bundles of cut reeds stacked in boats along the shore. The lake is also known for its birds. The governorship lists the pygmy cormorant, the spoonbill, the Dalmatian pelican, the bittern, the squacco heron and the purple heron among the species seen here. The coot, the white-headed duck and the ferruginous duck are also among the species mentioned in the sources. BirdLife International recognised the lake as an Important Bird Area in 1989. Carp and pike live in its waters. An endemic plant known as Eber sarısı, said to grow only in this area, is also counted among the lake's distinctive treasures. Lake Eber was declared a first degree natural protected area by a conservation board decision dated 22 June 1992. The provincial directorate of culture and tourism states openly that waste from the city and from industry polluted the lake for many years. So approach it not as a leisure park but as a sensitive wetland that needs protection; do not walk into the reed beds where birds nest, and leave no litter behind. The governorship names spring, summer and autumn as the seasons when the lake is most alive. Early morning and sunset are the most rewarding times for birds; flocks rising in the morning light and returning in the late afternoon are the lake's most striking sights. Bring binoculars and a long lens, because most of the birds stay deep inside the reeds. Walking along the shore is possible and camping in the surrounding area is an option; for a boat trip you need to speak to local fishermen. From villages on the southern shore such as Çayırpınar you get a wide view over the lake and the Sultan Mountains behind it. The easiest approach is via Bolvadin, which is reached from Afyonkarahisar by road and by intercity bus, but you will need your own vehicle to get to the villages on the shore. The dirt tracks along the shore can turn muddy after rain. On the same day you can complete the Akarçay basin by also visiting the historic Kırkgöz Bridge on the Akarçay and the İshaklı Caravanserai in Sultandağı.