The First 48 Hours in Ankara.

If this is your first visit to Ankara, you probably think of it as a transit point; a day for Anıtkabir, perhaps a museum, then on to Cappadocia. We understand, but give it two days and Ankara will show you three different faces, each belonging to a different era of Turkey. Here is a plan that starts at the railway station and covers the city's backbone in 48 hours.

Give the first day to Ulus. Start with Anıtkabir in the morning; it is a ten-minute walk from the Ankaray Tandoğan station to the Lion Road, and at nine the crowds have not arrived. Allow two hours for the mausoleum, the plaza and the underground museum, and do not miss the changing of the guard. At noon take the metro down to Ulus and, at twelve sharp, order Ankara tava at one of the tradesmen's restaurants on Denizciler Street; the trays are finished by two and latecomers go hungry. In the afternoon walk from the Roman Baths to Hacı Bayram Square, then via Suluhan and Gözcü Street to the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations, the finest archaeology collection in Turkey and worth two hours. End the day with sunset on the citadel bastions and dinner at one of the restaurants inside the walls.

The second day belongs to Çankaya. Go up to Tunalı Hilmi for a late breakfast; the street slopes from Kızılay down to Kuğulu Park, with patisseries, coffee houses and bookshops in its side streets. After coffee in Kuğulu Park climb the Çankaya slope through Seğmenler Park; the deck of Atakule shows the city in 360 degrees and, if you are leaving by train, this is your farewell view. With time to spare, go down to Kızılay and close the day with a fish sandwich on Sakarya Street.

There are things we have left out on purpose; art venues such as CerModern and CSO Ada, the restored lanes of Hamamönü, the temporary tomb in the Ethnography Museum. With a third day they are all within walking distance of each other on the Ulus–Sıhhiye axis. Out-of-town plans such as Beypazarı or Lake Eymir deserve a fourth.

Transport is simple. The Ankaray and metro lines cross at Kızılay, AnkaraKart works on both and is sold at the station. Taxis are reasonable, but walking the slopes of Ulus is more rewarding. Autumn is the best season, with clear air, yellow trees and quiet museums. In summer there is no shade at Anıtkabir and the Roman Baths, so bring a hat. Winter snow suits Ankara in photographs but the pavements ice over.

One last note. The people of Ankara know their city is underloved, and they show a special warmth to a visitor who likes it. Learn the city from the civil servant sharing your table at a lokanta or the antique dealer telling stories on the citadel slope; they are the best guides you will find.