Which Ferry to Take

In Istanbul the ferry is not a sightseeing vehicle but part of everyday transport; yet the same fare also gives you the best view in the city. Knowing which line to take means having that experience without paying separately for a tour. Short crossings The Eminonu-Uskudar, Karakoy-Kadikoy and Besiktas-Kadikoy lines take around twenty minutes and run frequently all day. These are usually the fastest way to cross between the two sides; the same distance can take an hour in traffic. Going up on deck and sitting at the stern is best for framing the silhouette of the historic peninsula. The Bosphorus line The line leaving Eminonu and running north along the Bosphorus as far as Anadolu Kavagi follows the same route as the touristic Bosphorus tour, despite being a scheduled service. The difference is in price and crowding. Allowing a few hours at Anadolu Kavagi to climb to Yoros Castle and taking the return ferry makes a full day. The islands line It leaves from Kadikoy, Eminonu and Kabatas, calling in turn at Kinaliada, Burgazada, Heybeliada and Buyukada. It leaves full on weekend mornings, and anyone wanting a seat on deck should be in the queue twenty minutes before departure. Sailings between the islands are frequent too, so you can build the day island by island. The Golden Horn line It runs from Eminonu along the Golden Horn as far as Eyupsultan. A short, cheap and little-known line; seeing Balat and Fener from the water gives a different sense of them than walking. Taking the cable car up to Piyer Loti from Eyupsultan is the natural continuation. Practical notes The Istanbulkart works on all lines and there is no need for a separate ticket; transfer discounts apply as well. Tea is served on deck. Some sailings can be cancelled in winter and in storms. There is commuter crowding morning and evening, so midday and the afternoon are more comfortable for the view. Feeding the gulls is a common habit, but you need to be careful handing out simit on deck.