Two Days in Denizli for First Timers

Almost everyone who comes to Denizli comes for Pamukkale, and most leave the same day. Yet within the province there are three ancient cities, the highest mountain in the Aegean and towns where hand looms still work. Give it two days and the place becomes something else.

Day one, the Pamukkale line. Walk the terraces barefoot, then climb to Hierapolis directly above; it is included in the same ticket and covers far more ground than the terraces. The twelve thousand seat theatre and the necropolis with close to two thousand tombs are what you came for. In the afternoon move ten kilometres south to Laodikeia, a large city with two theatres, a stadium and a colonnaded street, and none of Pamukkale's crowds. With time to spare, the Kaklık cave is the right way to close the day; it is called the underground Pamukkale and the comparison is not overdone.

Day two, head north. In Buldan the looms are still working inside the houses and the cloth carries a geographical indication. Tripolis, on the same road, takes almost no visitors and you can walk the site alone. If vineyards interest you, carry on to Çal, where the native Çal karası grape is grown and some boutique producers are open for tasting.

When to come: April to June and September to October are the most balanced. In July and August the travertine surface reflects hard and midday is punishing. Pamukkale can be seen under snow in winter, without the crowds.

Getting around: Denizli has trains from İzmir and Ankara and flights from İstanbul. Minibuses to Pamukkale are regular, but the other stops need a car, as the districts lie far apart.