Two Continents in One Day

Crossing between the two sides of Istanbul is not a tourist gesture but how the city works day to day. Splitting a day between the two sides is both more varied and, thanks to the ferry rides, more restful. The plan below runs from morning to evening. Morning, European side Be in Sultanahmet at opening time. Hagia Sophia and the Basilica Cistern are both brighter and emptier in the first hours. They are a few minutes' walk apart. Then see the three monuments on Sultanahmet Square and go into the mosaic museum in the Arasta Bazaar. Midday, Eminonu Come down to Eminonu by tram or on foot. The fish sandwich boats are at the quay, practical for a quick lunch. The Spice Bazaar is beside them, and it is worth going into the cheesemongers and coffee roasters in the back streets. Rustem Pasa Mosque is behind the market, reached by a narrow stair and worth it for the tiles. Afternoon, the crossing Take the Uskudar or Kadikoy ferry from Eminonu or Karakoy. The crossing takes twenty minutes and is the most restful part of the day; go up on deck and sit at the stern, watching the historic peninsula turn to silhouette as it recedes. The Istanbulkart is enough, with no separate ticket. Late afternoon, Anatolian side If you landed at Uskudar, walk along the shore as far as Semsi Pasa Mosque; small, right on the water and quiet. Kuzguncuk is five minutes away by bus, and its single main street is worth walking end to end. If you landed at Kadikoy, walk through the market and on to Moda. Evening, looking west The advantage of ending the day on the Anatolian side is that the sunset falls in front of you. The point at Moda, Fenerbahce Park and the Uskudar shore all face west, with the historic peninsula turning to silhouette. Sit in a tea garden and wait. Getting back Ferries finish early in the evening; the Marmaray runs at night and is the most reliable link between the two sides. Metro connections on both sides join the Marmaray. Practical notes Build the day in one direction and do not cross back and forth; each crossing costs half an hour. Check ferry times in advance, as sailings thin out in the late afternoon. Total walking is about six kilometres, so comfortable shoes are needed.