Three Days in Giresun for First Timers

Giresun is a small province on the Black Sea coast, yet it fits three separate geographies inside: a coastal strip, forested valleys and highlands above two thousand metres. Most first timers see only the centre and move on; give it three days and the province becomes something else. Day one, the centre. Begin at the castle above the town; it dates from the Pontic period, is now used as a park, and shows the harbour on one side and the island on the other. Come down through the Zeytinlik quarter, where the stone mansions of families enriched by the hazelnut trade stand from the late 19th century, most now restored. The Gogora church within the quarter is today the museum, and the building alone repays a look. In the afternoon take a boat from the harbour to Giresun Island, the only settled island on the eastern Black Sea, with the remains of a temple dated to the Hellenistic period. Day two, go up. The Kümbet and Bektaş highlands are sixty kilometres from the centre and fit comfortably into one day. While it is thirty degrees on the coast you will want a jacket here. The July festivals are among the best known in the region, but accommodation fills that week. Anyone after quiet should choose Bektaş. Day three, the eastern coast. The Genoese castle at Tirebolu stands at the tip of a headland, and walking through its walls leaves sea on three sides. Twenty kilometres on, Görele is the home of the kemençe. Görele pide is the right choice for lunch. When to come: June to September is the most balanced; the highlands are open and the sea usable. Rain is possible in any season, so bring a waterproof. August brings both the hazelnut harvest and the bird language festival. Getting around: the nearest airport is Ordu-Giresun, about forty kilometres from the centre. The minibus network along the coast works well, but the highlands and interior need a car.