The Ancient Cities of Muğla and When to Visit Each

Muğla is where three ancient regions meet. Caria to the west, Lycia to the east and a transitional belt between them to the north. Because of that its ancient cities do not resemble one another; some are harbour towns, some mountain settlements, one the capital of a principality.

Knidos sits at the tip of the Datça peninsula, with two harbours, a theatre and temple terraces; in antiquity it was famous for the Aphrodite of Praxiteles. The road is long and there is no shade, so spring and autumn are the seasons for it.

Kaunos lies across the water from Dalyan. Founded on the Carian and Lycian border, it carries traces of both. Its fame rests not on the city but on the Lycian tombs cut as temple facades into the cliff above. Going by boat is both easier and the right angle.

Stratonikeia, in Yatağan, is the most unusual on this list. A Hellenistic street, a Roman bath, a Byzantine church and above them the houses of an Ottoman village all occupy the same ground. A hundred year old village sits inside a two thousand year old city; few places in Turkey show such clear stratification.

Beçin Castle stands on a crag above the Milas plain. It was the seat of the Menteşe principality, with the remains of a madrasa, baths and a caravanserai scattered around it, so this is the remnant of a capital rather than a fortress.

Halikarnassos lies beneath Bodrum and cannot be visited as a single site; the Myndos Gate, the Mausoleum and the ancient theatre are scattered across town. Walking the three in order is the only way to recover the city's plan.

One rule holds for all of them: shade is scarce and midday is hard going. Come early or late, carry water, and wear shoes with support because you will be walking on rock.