Exploring Ankara using the Metro, Ankaray, and EGO public transportation systems.

Public transport in Ankara is simpler than Istanbul's and cheaper than most European capitals; once you have cracked the system, every corner of the city and two lakes are yours by bus. We have gathered everything you will need in one place, from buying a card to the last departure.

The card first. AnkaraKart works on the metro, Ankaray, EGO buses and the Başkentray suburban train. Buy it from machines or kiosks at the railway station, AŞTİ and major metro stations, and top it up at the same machines. Contactless bank cards work on some lines, but AnkaraKart is cheaper thanks to transfer discounts. A few days' credit is enough; there is no refund, so give the card to someone when you leave.

Here is the rail network. Ankaray (A1) runs from the AŞTİ bus terminal through Kızılay to Dikimevi; use Tandoğan or Anadolu for Anıtkabir and Bahçelievler station for 7th Street. Metro M1 Kızılay–Batıkent (Ulus, Sıhhiye), M2 Kızılay–Koru (METU, Bilkent, Çayyolu), M3 Batıkent–Törekent (for Göksu Park in Eryaman), M4 the Keçiören line (for Altınpark and Estergon). All lines meet at Kızılay and you transfer on foot. Services run roughly 06:00–24:00; after midnight it is a taxi.

Do not forget Başkentray. The suburban train between Sincan and Kayaş calls at the railway station, Sıhhiye and Kurtuluş; get off at Gazi for the Atatürk Forest Farm. High-speed train passengers arrive in the same complex at Ankara station.

On the EGO buses, Kızılay and Ulus are the main hubs. The lines you will want for the lakes; 190 from Kızılay to Lake Eymir, Gölbaşı lines such as 101 and 108 to Lake Mogan, 527 from Ulus to Soğuksu National Park in Kızılcahamam, 548 from Ulus to Beypazarı. Dozens of lines from Kızılay serve Tunalı and Çankaya, with frequent stops at Kavaklıdere and the arts centre. The EGO Cepte app shows live bus positions; type in where you want to go and it tells you which stop to use, and you will use it a lot.

Dolmuş and minibuses are still alive. They run on routes such as Kızılay–Çankaya and Ulus–Keçiören, paid in cash or with AnkaraKart. District minibuses to Beypazarı and Ayaş leave from Etlik and Ulus.

Taxis are yellow and metered; calling one by app is practical on the slopes of Ulus. For Esenboğa airport, BelkoAir buses leave from AŞTİ and Kızılay; the metro link is under construction.

Do not underestimate walking either. Ankara is hilly; the walks from Ulus to the citadel, Sıhhiye to the Ethnography Museum and Kızılay to Kuğulu are steep but short. Pavements ice over in winter, so choose your shoes accordingly.

A few warnings. Not every metro station has a lift, so plan with a pushchair in mind. Bus frequency drops at weekends and on holidays; check the last return from Eymir and Kızılcahamam at the stop or in the app. In the crowds of Ulus and Kızılay carry your bag in front.