From Tea Garden to Coffee House

In Istanbul, sitting down with something to drink is not a break but can be the day itself. The tea garden, the traditional coffee house and the modern cafe meet the same need in three different ways, and knowing which suits when changes the rhythm of a visit. The tea garden Usually with a view, outdoors and cheap. Tea comes in a glass and you ask for a refill. The terrace behind Suleymaniye, the upper end of Gulhane Park, the point at Moda, Fenerbahce Park and Piyer Loti Hill are the best positioned in the city. Sitting for hours is normal; nobody expects you to free the table. Turkish coffee Served in a small cup with water and usually a piece of Turkish delight. The sugar is set while it is brewed, so you have to say plain, medium or sweet when ordering; it cannot be added later. The grounds are not drunk and stay at the bottom of the cup. The coffee houses inside the Grand Bazaar, the Besiktas and Kadikoy markets and the area around Eminonu are the classic addresses. The traditional coffee house At neighbourhood scale, usually with a mostly male clientele playing backgammon and okey. It is not touristic; a good window onto the everyday life of a district, though it is worth reading the room before going in and sitting down. Third-wave cafes Karakoy, Cihangir, Kadikoy and Moda are where these concentrate. They lean to filter and espresso, state the origin of the beans, and prices are noticeably higher. They suit working, and most have sockets and internet. What to drink where If you want a view, a tea garden, because cafes are usually indoors. For conversation and long sitting, a tea garden or a traditional coffee house. For working, a third-wave cafe. For a short break mid-visit, a Turkish coffee standing up. A note Tea gardens do not always display prices; at scenic and touristic spots, asking the price before ordering is a reasonable habit. In places inside residential districts this rarely comes up. How tea is brewed In Turkey tea is brewed in a double pot; steam from the water below heats the pot above. When served, the strength is set by mixing brew and water, which is why you are expected to say weak or strong when ordering. That it comes in a slim-waisted glass is no accident; the glass shows the colour of the tea and its shape slows the cooling of the tea at the top. Who is offered what Offering tea in shops and on visits to tradesmen is a common courtesy; it creates no obligation to buy, though refusing is not considered rude either. In places like the Grand Bazaar the offer can be part of the bargaining, and it is worth accepting in that knowledge. Salep and boza In the winter months there are two more seasonal drinks alongside tea and coffee. Salep is served hot with cinnamon; boza is fermented and drunk with roasted chickpeas. Both are found only in the cold months.