Balat and Fener: A Day in the Colorful Streets

Two neighboring neighborhoods on the Golden Horn

Balat and Fener are two historic neighborhoods lying side by side on the western shore of the Golden Horn. Fener was the center of the Greek Orthodox community for a long time, while Balat largely hosted the Jewish community. This past can still be read today in the churches, synagogues, and wooden houses with bay windows.

Route

It makes the most sense to start in Fener and walk down to Balat; you will be walking downhill.

• Fener Greek Patriarchate: One of the oldest institutions in the Orthodox world. The courtyard and Aya Yorgi Church are open to visitors; the carved wooden iconostasis is impressive.
• Fener Greek Boys’ High School: A colossal red-brick building completed in 1881. Since it is still a school, visitors cannot go inside; you can photograph its façade from the surrounding slopes.
• Sveti Stefan Bulgarian Church: Known as the “Iron Church,” it is one of the few examples built by assembling cast-iron parts.
• Ahrida Synagogue: One of Balat’s oldest houses of worship. It is known for its teva arrangement, which resembles a ship’s bow; visiting requires prior permission.

When to go

Between 08:00 and 10:00 in the morning, it is both uncrowded and the shadows are soft. It is noticeably quieter on weekdays; on Sundays, some houses of worship may be closed because of services. There are cobblestones and steep ramps, so comfortable shoes are essential.

Transportation

From Eminönü, you can take a Golden Horn ferry to Fener Pier — it is the most enjoyable option because you approach the neighborhood with a view of its skyline. Walking along the shore also takes about 40 minutes.

One final note: Balat’s colorful houses are not tourist décor, but homes where people live. Avoid framing windows and the insides of doors.