Autumn in Ankara.

If you are going to choose one season to visit Ankara, choose autumn; take it from us. From mid-September to mid-November the sky opens with a clarity peculiar to the steppe, poplars and plane trees turn yellow, the summer heat is gone and the winter cold has not arrived. The city's cultural life wakes precisely in these months; the Presidential Symphony Orchestra and the State Opera and Ballet open their seasons in October, universities fill up and the cafes on Tunalı set out their tables one last time.

Where should you go for the leaves? The poplars and willows around Lake Eymir turn gold in the second half of October, and a bike ride with morning mist hanging over the water is one of the loveliest hours of the year. In town, the old trees of Kuğulu Park and Seğmenler Park, the pine and poplar groves of the Atatürk Forest Farm and the trees of Peace Park at Anıtkabir carry the colour. In Soğuksu National Park at Kızılcahamam oaks and aspens redden among the dark black pines; bus 527 from Ulus takes you there.

It is the ideal month for museums too. Once the summer tour groups and school trips end, the halls of the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations go quiet. Museums switch to winter hours in autumn (usually closing at 17:00), so plan accordingly and start early. Open sites such as the Roman Baths are finally cool at midday.

As for the season calendar. The CSO Ada Friday concerts begin in October, tickets are inexpensive and sold through biletinial. The Opera usually opens with a classical ballet. CerModern launches its major autumn exhibition, and the Ankara Film Festival and university events fall in the same period. On 29 October, Republic Day, hundreds of thousands climb to Anıtkabir; a historic day if you want to join, a date to avoid if you want calm.

Let us mention 10 November separately. On the anniversary of Atatürk's death the whole city stops at 09:05; there is a ceremony at Anıtkabir and visiting hours run late into the night. Traffic closes around Ulus and Anıtkabir that day, so plan on foot.

Mind what you wear. An autumn day in Ankara can be 8 degrees at 8 am and 22 at noon, so dress in layers. From mid-November the first snow is no surprise. Rain is scarce but the wind is sharp, especially on the citadel bastions.

The table follows the season as well. Autumn is carrot harvest in Beypazarı and grape time in Ayaş; stalls of fresh molasses and walnuts appear in the Ulus markets. Ankara tava and lamb tandır taste better as the air cools, and the courtyard cafes of Hamamönü turn to grills and fireside conversation.

If you want a short plan; a CSO concert on Friday evening, cycling at Eymir on Saturday morning and the Ulus museums in the afternoon, a forest walk and thermal pool at Kızılcahamam on Sunday. Autumn Ankara will show you the softness the city hides the rest of the year.