A Stage Among the Trees

The Harbiye Cemil Topuzlu Open Air Theatre is the city's most established open-air stage and is operated by IBB Kultur AS. Its amphitheatre set into the slope places the stage among trees; in summer the cool of the evening and the open sky become part of the programme. Programme The season opens in spring and runs into autumn. The programme is kept broad, with names from the Turkish and international music scene, theatre productions and concerts of different genres sharing one calendar. So it is not a stage tied to a single kind of music, and through the season it hosts very different audiences. The advantage of the setting The amphitheatre layout keeps the stage visible from every row, with sightlines preserved even at the back. The acoustics have settled over the years. Being ringed by trees turns the setting itself into scenery at evening concerts. Practical notes As it is open air, you should learn the conditions for cancellation or postponement when buying a ticket, in case of rain. Evenings cool down, especially in spring and autumn, so take a layer. The seating can be hard, and some people bring a cushion for long concerts. Tickets sell out quickly depending on the artist, so buying when the programme is announced is safest. Getting there In Harbiye, within walking distance of Taksim and close to a metro connection. After a concert the crowd disperses at once and taxis become hard to find, so the metro or walking up to Taksim is more practical. What is in the same area The Harbiye Military Museum and the Cemal Resit Rey Concert Hall are in the same area. Visiting the museum by day and staying for a concert in the evening is a workable plan. Macka Democracy Park is within walking distance and suits passing time before a concert. History The stage was built in the middle of the twentieth century and takes its name from Cemil Topuzlu, the physician and mayor of Istanbul of that period. It has stood at the centre of the city's summer programme ever since, with generations hearing different kinds of music in the same amphitheatre. It has been through renovations, but the amphitheatre layout and its relationship with the trees were preserved. Where to sit Because the amphitheatre is steep, the stage is clearly visible even from the back rows; but the sound is most balanced in the middle section. The side wings are close to the stage yet narrow the angle. It is worth looking at the seating plan when buying a ticket. Tickets and programme The programme is usually announced monthly. For popular names tickets sell out within days, and following the calendar is the only method. Free places may open through the Koltuk Senin application for Istanbul residents aged twenty-four and under.