48 Hours in Izmir for First-Time Visitors.

İzmir has a rhythm of its own; it resembles neither Istanbul's intensity nor Antalya's resort layout. Most first-time visitors, after two days, remember the habit of sitting by the sea more than any list of sights. So let us tell you how to spend two days without drowning them in a checklist.

Stay central on day one. In the morning photograph the Clock Tower on Konak Square, glance at the tiled Yalı Mosque beside it and dive into Kemeraltı. Make no plan in the bazaar, get lost; you will find coffee in the courtyard of Kızlarağası Han and shade in the courtyard of Hisar Mosque. For lunch, kumru or söğüş in the bazaar; both are İzmir specialities, so try both. In the afternoon walk to the Agora, a Roman marketplace in the middle of the city, hemmed in by apartment blocks. Climb Kadifekale for sunset and spend the evening in Alsancak, in the side streets of Kıbrıs Şehitleri.

Take to the bay on day two. In the morning ferry from Konak to Karşıyaka; it takes twenty minutes and is the only way to see the city's skyline from the water. Boyoz and lokma in the Karşıyaka bazaar, then a walk along the shore to Bostanlı. In the afternoon ferry back to Alsancak and stretch out on the Kordon; lying on the grass is a culture here, nobody looks twice. Drop into Arkas Sanat, then walk the shore to Karataş for tea on the terrace of the Asansör. Dinner on the Kordon if you are staying; if not, the station is a walk away.

For transport, make an İzmirim Kart your first purchase; it works on ferries, metro, tram, İZBAN and buses, with transfer discounts. İZBAN reaches the city from the airport in half an hour. The centre is walkable; you only need a taxi for Kadifekale.

For somewhere to stay, anywhere between Alsancak and Konak is walking distance to everything. Karşıyaka is calmer, more local and linked to the centre by ferry; the morning crossing is a fine start to the day.

Season-wise, April–June and September–October are ideal. July and August are hot and humid; in those months go out early and spend midday in a museum. In September the International Fair fills Kültürpark, so book your hotel early.

If you have a third day, the answer is one word, Ephesus. Ninety minutes by train, fruit wine in Şirince at the end of the day. Being this close and not going is not an option.

One last note. İzmir residents love their city and enjoy telling you about it. Ask for directions, ask for advice; you will most likely also learn where the best boyoz is, with a hotly disputed answer.