The Grand Bazaar has been open since the 15th century and remains a genuine market: both tourists and Istanbul residents come here to buy gold, carpets, and leather goods.

The Grand Bazaar has been open since the 15th century and is still a real market: Istanbulites as much as tourists buy their gold, carpets and leather here. In this labyrinth of more than sixty streets and thousands of shops, good shopping begins with knowing what you want and not hurrying. What to buy? Carpets and kilims are the bazaar's classic product; hand-woven Anatolian kilims and Persian carpets are sold side by side. Judging quality is hard, so for a major purchase visit several shops and ask where the piece comes from, its knot density and whether the dyes are natural. Gold is sold by weight on the jewellers' street and priced by the day's gold rate; ask separately for the workmanship charge. Ceramics and tiles come from the İznik and Kütahya traditions; hand-painted pieces differ from machine prints in both touch and price. Leather jackets and bags, copper coffee sets, evil-eye beads, Turkish delight and spices, silk scarves and water pipes are the other classics. For spices and delight, the Spice Bazaar and its surroundings are usually cheaper. Bargaining is expected, but it is a ritual, not a fight. The seller names the first price; you say you are interested but the price is high; you make a reasonable offer; you meet in the middle. For big purchases like carpets and leather an offer near half the first price is normal; on small items expect 10–20 percent off. Tea is a tradition, not a tactic; accept it, but it does not oblige you to buy. Cash usually gets a better price; credit cards work in most shops. Asking a price is not a commitment; 'thank you, just looking' is enough. Getting lost inside is easy. The main entrances are the Nuruosmaniye and Beyazıt gates; Kalpakçılar Street is the main corridor and the jewellers are there. The İç Bedesten, the domed section in the middle, is the oldest part and sells antiques. The hans — Zincirli Han, Cebeci Han — are the bazaar's courtyard gardens and much calmer; craftsmen's workshops are still on their upper floors. Timing: the bazaar is open Monday to Saturday and closed on Sundays and religious holidays. It is quieter before 10 a.m. and after 4 p.m. The booksellers' market is just outside the Beyazıt gate, for books and calligraphy. Finally: the best purchase is often the one you do not make. Visit the bazaar not as a mall but as a neighbourhood that has done the same work for five hundred years; drink tea, chat, watch the craftsmen. That is what you will remember more than the carpet.

What to Buy at the Grand Bazaar, and How to Bargain.