Listening to a Concert in a Sixteen Hundred Year Old Cistern

The Serefiye Cistern is far less known because it stands in the shadow of the Basilica Cistern, yet architecturally it is one of the most striking Byzantine cisterns. It was built in the fifth century under Emperor Theodosius II to store the water carried by the Valens Aqueduct. For many years it lay beneath the buildings above it, and after an extensive restoration it opened to visitors; today it is operated by IBB Kultur AS. The building itself The cistern rests on forty-eight columns arranged in nine rows. The brick vaults of the ceiling and the workmanship of the column capitals are well preserved. What sets it apart from the Basilica Cistern is not scale but order; the spacing between columns is wider here and the space is more legible, so you do not lose your sense of where you are. The floor is dry, so you walk on the bottom of the cistern, which is an unusual experience. Why it works as a concert venue Stone and water together produce a long reverberation, and the enclosed volume of the cistern distributes it evenly. The concert series held under the name Sounds from the Deep uses those acoustics; the programme ranges widely from classical music to contemporary forms and traditional music. As the space is small the audience is limited and seated close to the performers, giving a closeness not found in a large hall. Exhibitions The cistern also hosts contemporary art exhibitions. Current work placed within the historic fabric is read together with the space, and sculpture and installation shows suit it particularly well. Exhibitions are seasonal and the current programme is followed through the calendar. Practical notes for a visit Because the cistern is underground its temperature is steady year-round and cool compared with outside, so you need an extra layer even in summer. The light is low, so photography needs a high ISO and flash is usually restricted. The entrance is within walking distance of Sultanahmet, near the Cemberlitas tram stop. On concert and exhibition days the normal visiting hours can change, so check the programme before going. What is nearby Sultanahmet Square, the Basilica Cistern and the Grand Bazaar are all within walking distance. Seeing the two cisterns on the same day is a good way to understand the difference between them; the Basilica Cistern is larger and darker, the Serefiye smaller and more ordered. If you time it for a concert evening, you can see the area by day and stay for the concert.